Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 2: Getting cycling legs back

My second day of my pilgrimage was my first day cycling, something I was very excited about! I started in Tokushima again, waking up at Hostel PAQ bright and early, and way too early, thanks to jetlag. And my legs hurt, but no need to worry, today I would continue my pilgrimage by bicycle, a mode of transport I trust far more than my wobbly legs!

How I did my Shikoku Pilgrimage

My Shikoku Pilgrimage is a “kugiri-uchi”, meaning segmented pilgrimage, and is still ongoing. I only completed the Tokushima/Awa stage this time. This stage is called “Awakening” and comprises 23 Temples and approximately 160 kilometres if you follow the walking pilgrimage route, and approximately 220 kilometres if you cycle or drive. I cycled most of it, adding a few kilometres, by staying off the official route. I also used public transport and a taxi twice.

I travelled in June, which is not ideal for a walking pilgrimage due to high average rainfall and heat, but this was the only time I could take off from work. This also means that it was low season for the pilgrimage – fewer people around. And great flowers, especially hydrangea everywhere.

I stayed in relatively simple accommodations I booked through either Booking.com or directly by emailing the hosts. It was low season for the pilgrimage, so I did not need to make any phone calls but reserved everywhere quite far in advance, being a bit of a planner. However, many of my accommodations would offer phoning accommodations on your behalf to secure reservations.

The joy of riding a bicycle again

Jetlag woke me around 5am, and I quietly snuck out of my hostel. Just as I pitched up at the local Lawson, they opened the seating area at 6am, so I had an elaborate breakfast of coffee, sandwich and onigiri, bought snacks and sat on the 6.45am local train a bit too early, excited to cycle. The train, however, took ages, mostly due to waiting for several other trains.

Alighting where I had finished my walk yesterday, I was pleased when I spotted the van from Yeti Ltb. delivering my bicycle. I had arranged this easily – basically writing to them on Instagram, reserved a bicycle, pannier bags and Rinko bag, no prepayment, nothing. The complete hire was arranged and confirmed by direct messaging. Works a bit different to Germany, I guess.

I opted for a “Cross Bike”, which turned out to be a very nice Specialized Sirrus X of an older generation. It had a modified derailleur to tackle some hills, and was set up with a woman’s saddle, lights, tools and repair kit – all part of the rental. Although the owner spoke no English, he had the Terms and conditions in English, and was friendly and helpful. Yeti Ltb are easily contactable on WhatsApp or Instagram, media that many Western tourists use, so there is no need to download LINE and you can easily contact them with a data-only SIM. I didn’t need support during my trip, but it was very easy to contact them to arrange return of the bicycle.

I distributed my now reduced luggage from a Shupatto bag to the pannier bags, stowed my camera backpack and worked out a way to mount a men’s/unisex bicycle with a dodgy and basically very stiff hip (kerbs and somewhere to hold on). And then I set off! The first kilometres in the crisp morning air, I loved.

Still cycling through fairly densely built-up suburbia, but going off the main road, kids walking to school, this looked like from a nice Japan Tourism Promotion film.

Then came the first hill, only 80 metres. Fresh and in the cool morning air, I huffed and puffed a bit but managed to cycle up without having to get off the bike, and then, I saw the gate of T4, Dainichi-ji. It looked instantly attractive – and they had bicycle parking, too!

Today was to be a busy day – I wasn’t sure of my route yet, but I would try to see as many temples as was practicable on this side of the river, before crossing the river tomorrow and staying in the outskirts of Tokushima. A temple-tastic day ahead, the sun shining, I was in an excellent mood and pedalled with great energy.

Temple 4: Green, serene and welcoming

To say I loved Dainichi-ji is an understatement. From entering through its new gate, being greeted by the gardeners, and otherwise enjoying the silence, for this was early morning, and there was nobody there.

I wandered around at leisure, and for the first time, feebly tried to chant the Heart Sutra. I decided that in addition to purchasing the stamp for my nokyocho, to buy something at every temple I particularly liked. Here, it was a large magnetic sticker of Dainichi Nyorai for traffic protection, to join the Emerald Buddha in my car. Also, while visiting the most recent renovation, the beautiful bathrooms, I learned that under no circumstances is one to visit the loo in pilgrim attire. A good thing I hadn’t bought anything yet, and I left my backpack containing the nokyocho, safe in its plastic bag, outside, too.

About Dainichi-ji (T4)

Dainichi-ji is dedicated to Dainichi Nyorai, the Cosmic Buddha, and, in the more ancient and esoteric of Japan’s Buddhism Schools the most important Buddha of the four buddhas. Its image, just 5.5cm tall, is said to be carved by Kobo Daishi himself, and is well concealed, never to be shown to the public. Founded in 816, this temple is considered a temple protecting ancient Heian-Kyo, today’s Kyoto.

Dainichi-ji’s Main Hall is an early Edo Period original, It is linked to a corridor where you can admire (from outside) the 33 Kannon donated by wealthy merchants from Kansai. It also has some very pleasant well-maintained walking gardens, rest area, and looks very well maintained and friendly. Unfortunately, like so many temples, you see very little of the interior of the halls. The nokyocho office sells a small range of souvenirs unique to the temple.

Temple 5, Jizo-ji: Remember the Gingko Tree

Cycling from T4 to T5 was fun, just blasting down that hill again. A modest little roadside temple, the guidebook author Oliver Dunskus gives this one star for “fascination”. I always feel a bit bad, feeling a bit prejudiced. This temple also had no people other than the scribe, but one must really take note of the huge gingko tree which must look absolutely stunning in autumn.

I lit my incense, paid my respects and received my stamp, reading some articles about initiatives to make the Shikoku Pilgrimate a UNESCO World Heritage (like Kumano Kodo and Camino de Santiago). And chose sitting on a bench with a “Nope” soda over visiting the Rakan Statue Collection a short walk uphill. I just didn’t study the guidebook enough, And then, a huge bus parked up, and I heard English instructions barked – a lot of kids disembarked, and greeted me enthusiastically in English….Nagoya International School on a school trip.

About Jizo-ji

Like most temples on the pilgrimage, Jizo-ji was founded in 821, also by Kobo Daishi. He had by then become an important figure at the court of Emperor Saga, having helped him through serious illness and being appointed Head of Todai-ji in Nara. Most of his activities by then concentrated on Koya-san, which he established as a meditation retreat in 819.

Jizo-ji was quite notable then, and three generations of Heian Period Emperors, starting with Emperor Saga, were affiliated with Jizo-ji. There is said to be another minute statue of the Jizo Bosatsu, carved by Kobo Daishi himself, enshrined at the temple but out of view. This temple was once mighty, with about 300 subtemples in the surrounding provinces. However, in the Momoyama Period during the Era of warring states (Sengoku, 1467-1600-ish), in the late 15th Century, most of these temples met the fate of so many, burned down during years of civil war. The buildings you can see today are mid-Edo, late 18th Century, and include the Inner Hall, a few hundred metres uphill, with a collection of around 200 statues of rakan, enlightened disciples. This one is very easy to miss

Temple 6, Anrakuji: Not my thing

Now initially I had planned to stay in at least one temple lodging, and had tried (and failed) to secure a reservation at T6, Anraku-ji, thanks to their very convoluted web site that required a Japanese billing address. They didn’t respond to any messaged either, so I guess I felt a bit salty still. Also, after a few kilometres of cycling with no shade, I was a bit hot and bothered and my arms burned from the sun.

In hindsight, it was okay, since I could travel much further today, and stay further down the route. But the couple shops, one which sold snacks, made a very welcome in the middle of the very hot day.

The temple itself didn’t appeal at first sight. The blazing sun didn’t help, everything just looked bright an hot, so I first fled into the Daishido, to me the nicest part of the temple. It is possible to enter the small, beautifully decorated hall.

So that made a nice change. I sat on a bench and saw several people pass through, greeting the Kobo Daishi and giving a little speech, then chanting the heart sutra.

But all in all, it was so hot, and somehow, the temple didn’t really leave a great impression. The collection of statues outside the Main Hall looked a bit ramshackle, many fountains dry, the gardens a bit neglected… I felt like I wanted to go through with a big steam cleaner and a paintbrush.

So, in retrospect, I am was glad that I would not spend a lot of time here. Rested in the Daishi Hall, got my stamp, had an ice cream and visited both shops outside the temple, then moved on. Given the temple’s eminent tradition in hosting pilgrims and being very active in the official Shikoku Pilgrimage Association, I really would have expected this one to be somewhat more… welcoming.

About Anraku-ji

Anraku-ji today is most well-known for its natural hot springs and having one of very few temple lodgings (Shukubo) on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. Historically, most pilgrims would spend their first night after starting the pilgrimage here. and even today it is a natural overnight stop for walking pilgrims, walking at an average pace, about 16km from T1.

The hot spring that distinguishes Anraku-ji from many other temples was discovered by Kobo Daishi, leading him to carve a statue of the Yakushi Nyorai (Medicine Buddha) to whom this temple is dedicated to.

None of the buildings except the Hojo (Abbott’s Quarters) are particularly old, and look rather plain. The first Anrakuji was ransacked by that Kochi Warlord Clan of Chosokabe, sometime in the 16th Century. Soon after, it was rebuilt, and started hosting its first pilgrims overnight, making it one of the first temples of the entire pilgrimage to host pilgrims. Its large Shukubo (Temple Lodging) can accommodate up to 350 pilgrims – but it is relatively difficult to secure a booking without a Japanese residence address.

Next to the Daishido is a small pine, with another pine standing close to the Two-Storey Pagoda. One of them (or both) stand for a tree planted by a hunter who mistakenly shot at Kobo Daishi.

Temple 7, Jyurakuji: Diner opposite was great

The ride from T6 to T7 was a mere hop, but in the middle of the day, a bit featureless, hot, and when I arrived Jyurakuji temple, I was just counting the minutes until I could rest in the air-conditioned cool of the little diner across the road.Not the best mindset to visit a temple, eh. The temple wasn’t a spiritual highlight, either, rather plain, with a large Showa-era concrete block dominating it.

I was so hot, sunburnt, I visited really quickly. Missed the eye-healing Jizo. Oh well. June isn’t the easiest time for this pilgrimage. Or maybe I just needed a good lunch, last having eaten at 6am.

In the small diner opposite Jyurakuji called まんま家 (Manma House), I was greeted by two pilgrim ladies, delighted to practice their English, whom claimed they saw me on the train yesterday. This probably tells you something about the light crowds of pilgrims at this time of the year. They told me they’re on a mini-pilgrimage, walking most of it, but calling it a day after T7, visiting a spa and then returning home to Fukuoka.

There was very little vegetarian food, maybe just tanuki udon, so I opted for the dish of the day, fried sardines, which everyone seemed to be having. The meal was delicious. I paid somewhere around 1000 Yen, incredible how this was no fast food, but everything was homemade. I highly recommend it, but they are only open four hours a day around lunchtime.

About Jyuraku-ji

This temple was founded by Kobo Daishi when he felt a presence of Amida Nyorai (Amitabha, Buddha of the Pure Land, possibly most revered Buddha of Mahayana Buddhism), carved a statue, and… ta-da… Well, not that easily. So, like T2, T7 is dedicated to Amida Nyorai, and was once a very large temple, until troops of Kochi’s Chosokabe Warlord Clan destroyed it in 1528. Some buildings may be Edo period, but the majority of what you can see today is newer, down to the 1990’s Hondo.

Jyuraku-ji also houses a Jizo Statue that is thought to heal diseases of the eye and problems with vision. It is now placed to the left of the stairs up to the Daishi Hall.

Temple 8, Kumadani-ji: Hydrangea Heaven

My original plan for today was perhaps very ambitious, seeing Temples 4 through to 10, but the sun and heat certainly made pilgrimating a lot harder than in yesterday’s overcast weather. My next temple was only 4km away, but a small incline along a busy road nearly broke me. I had to get off the bike, and push for a bit, while huge lorries blasted past me.

Although the temple only lies at 100m above sea level, I felt like the incline was never ending. Here, having tackled the first incline, second Coke in hand, I decided that I would not attempt T10 today – T10 was even higher, with lots of steps, too much for my sunburned body. I would check in nice and early into my accommodation and get some good rest. Normally, that would be an excellent idea, since there is a large public onsen just half a kilometre away, but of course, today was the fortnightly rest day.

But well, this also allowed me to spend more time at Kumadani-ji, which, though not the most welcoming-looking temple almost had no other people there. Only one person in the Nokyocho Office by the parking lot, and two or three other pilgrims at the most… mostly spending time photographing the hydrangea lining the approach path.

I know hydrangea are quite common in Japan, and I saw many yesterday in private gardens and the odd plant in temple gardens, but never so many different ones as here. The hydrangeas even get their own Googlemaps entry, and there were hydrangea goshuin for sale, too.

Resolved to rest soon, I blasted downhill on my bike, through the majestic old Niomon, which stood in the fields, with a little path leading through it, and back to the plains of Yoshino River.

About Kumadani-ji

Kumadani-ji is a Shingon Buddhist temple dedicated to the Kannon (Senju Kannon a.k.a. Thousand-Armed Kannon, Acvalokiteshvara). Interestingly, this temple came to be thanks to a Shinto Deity called Kumano Gongen, who appeared to Kobo Daishi and gifted him a small golden statue of the Kannon and told him to “Save Mankind in the distant Future”. So… Kobo Daishi complied, built a hall and carved a life-size statue of the Kannon, to be enshrined in the new temple.

The temple is an interesting mixture of some old and some very new buildings who look quite harmonious together. The original buildings had burned down several times by the early Edo period, but a fire in the 1920’s destroyed most of the temple including the Kannon. The Main Hall was rebuilt at the end of World War II. Some buildings further away survived the fire and are important Cultural properties, like the early 18th Century (Edo) Daishido, up a flight of steps, and the 17th Century Niomon, which stands rather forlorn in the fields about 1km away.

Temple 9, Horin-ji: The Cat Welcome

Knowing I would rest in a cool air-conditioned room soon, and on a smooth fast downhill ride, I could see Horin-ji amidst the rice fields. After the last temples were mainly in built-up suburbs, T8 was the first one surrounded mostly by nature, and T9 looked like from an old woodcut print: A cluster of majestic dark wood building surrounded by sky and rice fields.

I instantly liked it, even though its buildings were quite plain. As I parked my bicycle, I noticed a short-tailed tabby cat sitting by the gate. And, as if he was showing me around, he walked ahead of me as I entered through the plain dark wooden gate.

You know, like in these Studio Ghibli films “The Cat returns” and “Whisper of the Heart”, this cat was something. Looking around for me, then proceeding past the two prayer halls into a shaded corner, where he lied down, ready to be petted. Was it me, already a bit delirious from sunstroke, travelling on my own, not having had a conversation longer than ten minutes, since I arrived? Was this cat a special guardian? Phantasy running wild here, and perhaps one day, when my mediocre talent has miraculously grown, I shall make a manga about the Secret Tabby Abbot of Horinji. I mean, there is a manga about a cat in the onsen*, why not?

The temple is quite nice, too, but the presence of Secret Tabby Guardian elevated this my several levels to me. I bought a sandal charm, because with my bad legs, one can never have enough of those, however many gym trips, let the charms work their charm. I also wondered whether the ladies working the nokyocho office made a mistake by toting up my incense, tenugui, sandal charm and box of incense, and it bothered me a bit that maybe they should have used a calculator instead of relying on their brain on this very hot day. I was still mulling over it, a kilometre along, scarfing down a big ice cream and a fizzy drink at Family Mart. Standing up, because out here, it seems there is no need for any seating at convenience store. Well, if that bothered me for so long, it means it must have been a good day, with such minor troubles occupying the huge space in my mind reserved for concerns and worries.

It wasn’t really that late when I rolled up at my pilgrim inn, next to some vegetable fields, where I gulped down a cup of coold mugicha, then immediately made up my futon, went for a lovely cold shower and fell into a deep and pretty restful sleep for two hours. It also meant I finally caught up a bit on sleep, and had a very restful evening lolling around in my little tatami room, drinking tea, fizzy drinks and eating whatever I had picked up from the conveneince store this morning, crackers, imo kenpi (sweet potato sticks) and a bag of the excellent Lawson Dried Mango.

About Horin-ji

Horin-ji is a Shingon Buddhist temple dedicated to Shaka Nyorai (the Original Buddha, Siddhartha Gautama). It was founded in 815 by Kobo Daishi. Many of the Shikoku temples were founded in 815 – Kobo Daishi must have been really busy that year! here, Kobo Daishi ncounrtered a white snake, thought to be a messenger from Buddha, and carked a statue of a reclining Buddha.

In the Momoyama Period, the destructive Chosokabe were at it here, too, and destroyed the temple, followed by accidental fire during the late Edo Period. The temple was rebuilt during the early Meiji Period and contains a robe of Kobo Daishi from Koya-san.

You will also see many straw sandals in the main hall. According to lore, a pilgrim visited on crutches and felt his legs became light and powerful as they walked down the path to the temple. Therefore, this temple is known as a powerful place to pray for cure from mobility problems and leg ailments, hence the sandals and the many omamori in sandal form. Of course I bought one, too… my backback is decked out in sandal omamori from all sorts of temples now.

Where I stayed

After trying and failing to make a booking at the Pilgrim Accommodation of T6, Anraku-ji (their website… enough said… they didn’t answer my messages, either), I stayed in a small private pilgrim lodge called Okudaya in Awa.

I booked through their web site after finding them on either Google Maps or the Henro Helper App. You can also book them through the Henro House website. The guesthouse, while simple with its seven tatami rooms, is extremely helpful and welcoming, offering pickup service between Temples 1 and 11, and they will drive you to the convenience store and nearby onsen, too. And they offer pickup service between Temples 1 and 11, which I believe, is free.

When I stayed, the onsen was on its fortnightly rest day, so no onsen for me. When the onsen is open, I think this will be a perfect stay for pilgrims – cheap, comfortable, and an onsen to rest your weary legs. There is a coffee maker but they serve no meals. When I arrived, I was welcomed by an elderly caretaker, who appears to stay on site when there are guests. He immediately phoned the owner who spoke good English, and the owner asked if I needed any help and offered to drive me to the konbini, but being on the bicycle, both onsen, konbini and a couple restaurants are in easy cycling distance, about 0.5to 1.5km.

I had no difficulty whatsoever in securing a booking, since June is not that popular a time for the Henro (too rainy, too hot).

If you prefer to book through a booking portal, I would recommend Guesthouse Channel-kan a few km south for shared/simple accommodation.

Access Awa, a simple business hotel near T9 might be another option if you prefer a hotel. There isn’t a lot of accommodation that can be booked on international portals in this area, and backtracking to Tokushima by taxi and train takes a long time and is quite costly.

Also, the Shikoku Pilgrimage Facebook group has a list of inexpensive accommodation, so if you are looking for options beyond the international booking portals, this is a great source.

Limited mobility options

This section is okay to do on public transport until you get near T6, then there is no public transport after that. I have had more or less serious struggles with my mobility in past years. So I try to elaborate on limited mobility options each day for those temples I visit on this pilgrimage. For me personally, cycling works best for this stage of the pilgrimage, which is why I hired a bicycle, with a rinko bag to I have an option to travel by train as well.

While the previous day’s temples are relatively easy to visit by public transport (and a little bit of hitchhiking or taxi), I am afraid I cannot offer much for this section. After Itano and T3, the train line takes a sharp towards the coast, leaving you with a bus running to T5 and a little beyond, about 1km from T6, very infrequently…about three or four times a day. It is called Kajiyabara Line ( No. 28,47,48). Past that, there is no public transport for well over 20km until you reach the opposite side of the river and Kamojima, where there is a railway line.

So, if you are able to cycle, cycle. It is flat, and you can use small byways/the official walking route here, it’s all tarmac, or cycle on the pedestrian walkway along the main road and it is mostly flat. There are significant hills (about 80 metres) before you reach T4 and T8. Or, after T5, a hire car or taxi would work well. From what I understand, there are taxis available in most places and convenience store or temple staff are happy enough to call a taxi for you.

If you cannot cycle, hiring a car for a day or two to see T7-T17 would make a lot of sense, since taxi fare for all of these will add up. Also it would be an extremely packed day, seeing 11 temples in a single day. T14-17 are somewhat easier by public transport should you run out of time.

Another bonus point here goes to Okudaya, where I stayed. They are located between T7,8 and 9 and offer (I believe its fee) pickup service from Temples 1 to 11, and will take you there the next morning to continue your journey.

The Small Print

I visited Japan in June 2026, where I spent most of my two-week trip cycling the Tokushima section of the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage. This trip was entirely self-funded. And yet- I managed to get my shopping in!

• Today’s total mileage: 25km, all by bicycle
• Temples Visited: 6 (T4-9)
• Food: Decent, Lawson Sit-Down spread, extremely cheap, extremely nice lunch, too knackered to go out in evening)
• Money Spent: Moderate (bicycle hire for a week, cheap single room, snacks, food, temple stamps, onsen bath salt)
• Spiritual Enlightenment: Low. Just haven’t gotten into it yet.

Nothing you see here was sponsored, and I did not receive compensation, discounts, or special treatment in exchange for writing it. All my own honest and unbiased opinion. I know that those of us who have little time off often like to make their itinerary and secure accommodation well in advance and prefer the security of early bookings, especially on weekends and during busier periods. I used Booking.com to pre-book about 80% of my accommodation on this trip and the other two nights were booked directly. This post does contain affiliate links to accommodation I stayed at as well as some good accommodation in the area which I researched and would consider staying at. If you book a hotel using my affiliate links, I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please refer to my blog’s Terms and Conditions for further information.

This post (well, my entire blog, except this) is free from generative Artificial Intelligence.

*The cat in the onsen manga is called “Traveling Hot Spring Manga Kakeyo-kun” or, in proper Japanese, “旅する温泉漫画 かけ湯くん”, and the ISBN is 4309279740 (of the first volume). I found it okay to read at my level which is somewhere between N5 and N4, a lot of cursive/handwritten hiragana.