My Shikoku Pilgrimage Day 3: Snakes, Sushi and a Feast

My third day started bright and early, thank you jetlag. At the same time, I was happy to be up so early and still feel reasonably rested, so I could cycle good distance before the sun was up and the temperatures too warm. Waving goodbye to the caretaker of Okudaya, I packed up my panniers, and continued – via the same Family Mart as yesterday for breakfast. Unfortunately, so many convenience stores out in the sticks have done away with their seating areas, so I had my coffee and onigiri perched against a barrier.

Thus fortified, pedalled down some really nice straight streets – tiny agricultural roads in excellent conditions, almost no traffic at 7am. I basically pedalled in the vague direction of my next temple, Kirihata-ji, occasionally checking my phone to make sure I was going in the right direction, first past rice fields and the occasional house, then back into the suburbs of Awa City, more like sleepy villages, really.

Once I got to Awa Town, it was so early, even a Japanese countryside village was still in a deep sleep. But those early morning on my pilgrimage served me well, especially with the temperatures expected in June. Guided by the map, I pushed up my bicycle some steep road, noticed a few pilgrim supply shops, still closed, and looked for somewhere to park my bicycle – easier said than done, since there was no one around to ask so early. I finally ended up tucking it unobtrusively behind a parking space stopper.

Generally, I found parking my bicycle in the countryside easy. Most convenience stores will permit it. Many temples have small but dedicated parking spaces. I usually left all my stuff on the bicycle, but locked the bicycle. I saw many bicycles that weren’t even locked. In the city, it was much harder. Especially in central Tokushima, there were areas that looked perfect for bicycle parking, but with signs saying bicycle parking was forbidden – and lots of bicycles parked in front. I saw no paid bicycle parking, either. Honestly. I ended up parking with the other bicycles, quickly popping into Muji and Loft, but I felt somewhat uneasy.

T10, Kirihata-ji: My first climb

I was so early, I walked up a very steep road at leisure, parked up and walked the rest of the way up Kirijhata-ji, 333 Steps, in the shade, slowly in the early morning cool, and well before the “official” opening time.

A lone old man was sweeping some leaves, ignoring my greeting. I had the temple to myself, and when I finished my visit, the nokyocho office (called Nokyosho, where you get your nokyocho stamped, so easily confused!) was open, staffed by a very small very old lady, almost invisible behind the counter.

I cherish those early temple visits. Going in June meant that there were few people around – especially no foreigners like me. When I follow the conversations on English or German-speaking social media, there seem two be two distinct seasons for the pilgrimage, spring (March to May) and autumn (October to November). Since starting two days ago, I saw a bunch of foreigners at T1, and none since. Few Japanese visit during the week, many on weekends, seeing just a few temples at once. Of course, being a foreign tourist myself, look who’s talking, but, to be honest, I prefer the temples being more quiet, even if I have to deal with a fair bit of heat.

About Kirihata-ji

Kirihata-ji is a Shingon Buddhist temple said to be founded by Kobo Daishi around 815 CE. Legend has it that Kobo Daishi met a young noblewoman here, weaving, and asked her for a piece of cloth to repair his robes. She cut him a generous piece and told him that her family hat been exiled from the Imperial Court, and asked Kobo Daishi to become a nun. Following that, Kobo Daishi carved the statue of the Senju Kannon who wondrously merged with the woman, showing that you can attain enlightenment without a long circle of rebirth. Hence the name “Temple of the Cut Cloth” – Kiri-hata-ji. The principal deity is the Senju Kannon (Thousand-Armed Kannon)

It’s quite an attractive, well maintained temple in a lofty hilltop setting. Its Two-Storey Pagoda, dating back to early Edo Period, has been designated an Important Cultural Property. There are about 13500 Important Cultural Properties in Japan, both tangible (buildings, works of art) and intangible ( traditions, arts and practices) of which around 1150 are designated National Treasures, one notch “up”.

The Two-Storey Pagoda is a “guest” from Osaka’s Sumiyoshi Shrine, which was moved here during the early Meiji Period when Imperial orders led the shrines to be “cleansed” from Buddhist elements.

Side quest: Pilgrim Shops at Kirihataji

Awa Town and the area around Kirihata-ji used to be a very important overnight stop on the historic pilgrim route. Now all that’s left is a pleasant small town with not much happening – and number of really nice pilgrim item shops on the lower approaches to Kirihata-ji

I visited one of them after returning from the temple at the recommendation of mu guidebook. The shop is called Sumotoriya and has been run by the same family for several generations. The current proprietor spent many years in Tokyo and Kyoto before returning to take over the shop , and the shop you see today is bright, pleasant, and carries lots of different pilgrims items and souvenirs.

The owner speaks English and guided me through some of the pilgrim items for sale – so far, I had only bought my nokyocho (stamp book) and incense, so I bought a few more things I though I need or rather, I liked. However even if you buy nothing, you are welcome to enter the shop and leave any luggage there before walking up to the temple.

First thing I wanted was the wagesa, the pilgrim “stole” which has been reduced to a small strip of brocade that pilgrims wear around their necks. Sumotoriya produces some of them, and all price ranges, from 6000JPY silk to 1500JPY polyester were available.

I also bought a Hakui, the white Pilgrim overgarment – this way, I could be identified as a pilgrim easily. I really wanted a cotton one, but all there is is a polycotton with a high polyester count (60% Polyester, 30% Cotton)… It looked white and crisp, survived a lot of laundry, but I jokingly dubbed it my sweat suit. I did not bother with the large sedge hat and the staff, since they would be inconvenient to carry on the bicycle. I stocked up on a few tenugui (of course) and more incense, too. It’s just a shame T10 is so difficult to reach on public transport – how great would it be if you could go there easily before starting the pilgrimage, and get all your pilgrim items here, in the are with the most shops and the biggest selection.

While an elderly lady brought me some tea, I had a conversation with the shop’s owner. he spoke great English, something you do not come to expect in in Japan, especially not in the Shikoku countryside, and we spoke about what kind of pilgrim visit his shops, what they buy, and… conversation led to Kyoto, where the owner had lived and worked for many years… and Tokyo, and led to onsen in Tohoku. Turns out he returned from his career in Honshu’s cities to take over the shop from his father, continuing to run this shop over several generations. I was awed by his commitment and dedication for the family business, having been in a similar situation once… and choosing to stay in my job I had spent several years studying for.

Apologies for perhaps always asking the same questions to the owner… I certainly enjoyed my conversation, and while I see fifty or hundred new people every day at work, I like my solitude, but coming from a busy period at work into the solitude of the pilgrimage, it was perhaps a bit much all at once.

I also realise these pilgrimage diaries are getting wafflier by the day, but I am going to leave these here as they are, representing more like a “true diary” and “travelogue”. My way to live my waffly side.

T11, Fujidera: where I was greeted by a snake

My next section was a relaxed cycle ride, mostly downhill. I stopped at a post office to buy more cute stamps. I had particularly fallen for the snow bunny 2-Yen Stamp, but the 5-Yen one has snow monkeys on it, and the one I normally buy (140 Yen) can be bought in beautiful editions, too!

Very pleased with my lightweight haul, I cycled through sunflower fields and farmland and then across the Kawashima Sensui Bridge, a narrow bridge that submerges in high water. The other side of Yoshino River looked much more urban again – convenience stores, restaurants, chain stores all along National Route 192, which I followed for a while. Having cycled about 20km this morning already, I took a tea stop at a Lawson and bough a matcha latte which I drank perched on my bicycle, nowhere to sit here, too. The matcha latte was pretty forgettable, seems that Japanese convenience stores have great coffee, need refinement on their other drinks.

Spotting a Sushiro on the map, I decided I wanted sushi for lunch but first – I turn off the main road, back onto small access roads, rice fields, and towards Temple 11, Fujidera, at the foot of the mountain where the next temple is located – the one I am skipping today.

Fujidera’s location, at the edge of town, is nice, if a little unkempt, with some small-scale building sites, and affordable inns and hostels in walking distance – most walking pilgrims stay here before tackling the arduous walk to Shosan-ji early the next morning, but as a cyclist, today I would veer off the main pilgrim route quite significantly.

On the steps up to Fujidera, a decent-sized snake, maybe 2 metres long, was sunbathing on the steps but slithered away by the time I unpacked my phone. It was brown and looked quite cute! I googled snakes immediately – it wasn’t a mamoushi, the Japanese pit viper. Maybe a keelback, or a rat snake. I was pleased rather than concerned but thought to look at the ground a bit more carefully when walking.

Walking around the small temple, I was pleased to see some Shinto Shrine still nicely incorporated into the temple. A Tradition called Shinbutsu-shūgō, an expression of the organic Syncretism of Shinto’s kami and Buddhism’s deities for many centuries until the Meiji restoration of the 1860s- tried to separate them, sometimes forcefully. Of course, when you restart your Japan explorations in Western Kyushu after a long time of not seeing Japan, then you’ll have to add churches, too. There is a saying in Japan that you’ll be born Shinto (Japan’s indigenous religion), marry Christian (often attributed to Western influence) and die Buddhist.

The walking route to Temple 12, Shosan-ji, starts here at Fuji-dera. It looked somewhat brooding and ominous. Having “done” over 20km on the bicycle already this morning, I still feel like a big underachiever, because I did not feel strong enough to tackle this walk. However, I prefer playing it safe rather than end my trip prematurely with an inoperable knee, so back on the bicycle it is.

So, I had a seat, before walking to the stamp office, and I must have looked knackered, or sad… because a Japanese pilgrim came and asked whether I was okay and needed any help. Even though you may walk solitary, and there may be bouts of feeling lonely, it fells like you are never really alone on this journey. And of course, there’s Kobo Daishi, always walking with you in spirit. Although I must say that on my particular journey, even though it’s not that busy, I have not felt his presence often. I have let myself get carried away with worries about home which I have zero control over, and, what’s worse, absolute first-world problems that really should not matter. Yes, I am moving along nicely and according to plan, but, spiritually, I am far from a dedicated pilgrim yet.

About Fujidera

Fujidera is the first of four (I think) Zen temples you encounter on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. It was founded in 815 by Kobo Daishi who was then 42 years old, an age that is seen as inauspicious (“yakudoshi”) by traditional Japanese beliefs, which may explain the many rituals and temple foundations in 815!

Fujidera, at first a Shingon Temple was destroyed in the late Momoyama period, sharing a fate with many others, not through war this time, but mountain fire. , and rebuilt in the early Edo period by a Rinzai Zen monk and hanged into a Zen temple. The current buildings are from late Edo period, after yet another fire which destroyed everything except the temple’s principal image, the Yakushi Nyorai (Medicine Buddha).

To me, Fujidera didn’t feel particularly Zen, so there were no empty halls and sparse decoration- but the usual shuttered-off halls. But, if you can gain access, there is a 1970s painting of a cloud dragon on the Main Hall’s ceiling, a characteristic of many Zen temples.

T13, Dainichi-ji

By now, it was nearly lunchtime, and I felt an appetite for sushi. I am always one for the independent restaurants, so after a quick search, I found one, 12 km ahead, and could cycled most of the way parallel to the main road, more nice houses, gardens, relaxed cycling.

I was greeted enthusiastically when entering the small restaurant on the main road, called Deta Sushi, and ate extremely well – the daily special, and, of course, my favourite vegetarian sushi… natto roll, umeshiso roll and cucumber roll. I feel a bit embarrassed ordering vegetarian sushi only, and, to be honest, the fish on the sushi I had for lunch was really good. After paying the incredible bill of 2200 Yen (about 12 Euro), I continued. Ah, I dragged my feet. It was hot, and I had now a nice head wind.

At least, I managed to stay off the main road for most of the ride, but, upon crossing a bridge, I felt a faint tremor. There was no lorry anywhere. Was this… an earth quake? Could I have experienced two dangerous things in one day? It went as fast as it appeared.

Soon enough, a very nice looking shrine appeared, where I could park my bicycle. The temple, across the road – I think this one broke the record for the most mediocre one.

Or, perhaps, a bit of temple fatigue just set in. The area was a bit drab, there were no shops, no cafes, not even a convenience store. I must say, it probably isn’t the best welcome, when, after two days of hard hiking from T12 you arrive here, with… basicallly hardly any infrastructure.

Also, where were all the pilgrims? This day had been very quiet. Even though I had just come from relatively busy suburbs, I had seen plenty of cars, but hardly any people. I rejoiced in anticipation of the nice ryokan I would stay in tonight… and the dinner. Only two more temples to go, but to be honest, I was looking forward to my futon and a really nice sleep.

About Dainichi-ji

Dainichi-ji Temple 4 and Dainichi-ji Temple 13 share the same name, although T4 Dainichi.ji is also known after its Mountain, Kokuganzan (黒巌山) and T13 Dainichiji is known as Ogurizan. Dainichi-ji’s main deity is the Eleven-faced Kannon, a manifestation of the Bodhisattva Avlokiteshvara (Kannon), although when Kobo Daishi first came and meditated here, the Dainichi Nyorai (“Cosmic Buddha”) appeared to him in a purple cloud, and he carved a statue of Dainichi Nyorai and founded the temple.

You will notice the large shrine next door, called Ichinomiya Shrine. The original Dainichi-ji was burned down by the Chosokabe Clan during the Momoyama Period (yet another one) and rebuilt in the early Edo Era, in the precincts of the shrine and Ichinomiya Shrtine was, for many years, almost a part of the temple. Shrine and temple were separated yet again during the Meiji restoration ( and now there’s a main road separating shrine and temple) and the Shrine’s Eleven-faced Kannon moved to the temple to stand alongside the Dainichi Nyorai. Here, the Hondo and the Daishodo stand facing each other, with a copy of the Shiawase Kannon (Kannon of Happiness) between them.

T14, Joraku-ji, bit of a stumble

I had already passed the entrance to Jorakuji, but when I returned, I realized I had to walk up a hill to get to the temple. Not a big one. I decided to don my hakui for the first time, took it out of its plastic bag, and immediately started sweating like crazy. So my first action, once I reached the temple, was to sit in the smoker’s corner and drink two fizzy cold drink and admire the view from there.

My legs and back hurt so badly. Why all these rocks? Do they want pilgrims to fall and break a leg? I dragged myself to the halls, but my heart was not in it.

About Joraku-ji

Joraku-ji and its principal deity is a Bodhisattva Miroku Bosatsu, also known as Maitreya or Future Buddha. T14 is the only temple on the pilgrimage dedicated to Maitreya. The temple was founded in 815 by Kobo Daishi at the age of 42 (see temple before) where he saw the Miroku Bosatsu, carved the image, founded the temple… got burned down by the Chosokabe during the Momoyama Period…history repeating itself. What’s more interesting is that the Chosokabe later converted to Buddhism, and funded the rebuildig of many temples, mostly in today’s Kochi Prefecture.

The temple was rebuilt soon after in the early Edo period and moved to a rocky outcrop, which explains today’s somewhat rocky terrain once you reached the temple. There is a large children’s welfare centre which has been in operation since the 1950’s attached to this temple, and a miraculous tree next to the Hondo, where you can pray t heal from Diabetes. There is a statue of Ksithigarba (Jizo in Japan ) Bodhisattva close to the Main Hall, too, where you can pray for the wellbeing of children.

T15, Awa Kokubun-ji, ambushed by locals

Ah, only one more temple today, then I could rest in my nice ryokan. It’s just a very short stroll or, in my case, bicycle ride from the last temple. As I entered, finally, I saw people! Jolly ladies with Pola (Cosmetics brand) aprons, greeting me. I greeted back and went on to view the temple and apply for my stamp.

The temple was nice and inoffensive. No steps or stumbling stones. I was wondering about some stony rubble surrounding the Main Hall… oh, it was a nationally acclaimed dry landscape garden? Okay, sorry, no offence, but this ain’t Kyoto. I think it was time to go to my lodging and rest.

The ladies at the entrance, seated around a large camping table with a few Japanese pilgrims, wouldn’t have it. I sat down, and was served tea and cakes. And talked to a couple other pilgrims, all doing the pilgrimage by car, although one older pilgrim proudly displayed his enamel badges on his stole, one for completing the pilgrimage on foot, one by bicycle. After a small talk which I thoroughly enjoyed, feeling a bit alone in the past few days, it was time for the last 1.5km today…

Today I would have loved an onsen, but there was none nearby, so I squeezed myself into the comical deep but very short tub at the ryokan, then had a wonderful snooze on the fluffy futon until it was time for dinner… where I met a fellow pilgrim, a woman from France who had been travelling in Eastern Asia for the past six months… so lucky. It was lovely to have a conversation with someone who appeared friendly and thoughtful, and when I did go to bed, I slept well, being one of only two guests in the large and beautiful ryokan.

About Awa Kokubunji

Awa Kokubunji is the second Zen Temple on the Shikoku Pilgrimage. The main deity of Awa Kokubunji is the Medicine Buddha, Yakushi Nyorai.

Awa Kokubunji predates the visit of Kobo Daishi and was founded by Gyoki by the decree of Emperor Shomu during the Nara Period, around 740 CE. It became a Shingon Buddhist temple through Kobo Daishi’s visits, was burned down in the Momoyama Period, the common fate share by many temple, and rebuilt by a provincial magistrate during the mid-Edo period when it became a zen temple. It is associated with the Soto School of Zen, oftern considered “Modern” but actually going back to Dogen Zenji, a 13th Century Buddhist Priest who founded Eiheiji Monastery (in Fukui) and the Soto School.

It does have a Zen Rock Garden which is mainly an early Edo period work, but looked rather frazzled in June, and a Hondo from the early 18th Century, the rest of the buildings are newer.

Where I stayed

I stayed at another Google Maps find, a classic ryokan called Urokorou. Urokorou was founded in the early 20th Century, and is now run in the fifth generation, with a line of great chefs. Although the current building is probably 1980’s, once inside, you get the generosity of a classic ryokan, but light, huge staircases, huge hallways and some very large rooms indeed. They have only about five rooms or so, and as a guest, you get a lot of attention – from the homemade apricot juice I was served, to my bicycle being brought into the entrance area, and the detailed menus. There is a more detailed post about the ryokan here.

I had a lovely room overlooking the street, bright, clean, and very comfortable. Thing is, other than the look of the wash basin and maybe chairs, you can hardly tell by the traditional decor whether it’s vintage Showa period or new. With this one being very spick-and span and clean, I do actually like the vintage ryokan.

At the appointed time, a sumptuous traditional dinner was served in the dining room. You can pre-book for different dietary requirements, including vegan. Which I didn’t, but I requested that no meat be served to me – just to leave out any meat. Since there was only two of us, I am glad I did not put down any special requests, given that we were served this multi-course fabulous dinnner. There was chilled carrot soup as well, rice, and coconut ice cream – all home-made.

Urokorou has a web site including a reservation form in English, and this is the only way you can reserve. Worked well for me.

If you prefer to use an international booking portal, you can find a beautiful modern yet traditional style Bed and Breakfast called Komaian just around the corner. If you are in the area, don’t miss the excellent family-run Deta Sushi (出多寿司)

There aren’t a load of hotels or guesthouses in the area. If you manage to see T17, Idoji, before settling down for the night, central Tokushima is quite easy to reach by bus or train from T16 and T17, with Ko Station being about 1.5kilometres from both. In Tokushima I stayed at I stayed at Hostel PAQ (single room) and can highly recommend it. If you prefer a hotel, I would suggest Hotel Sunroute Tokushima – right next to the station and one of very few hotels in the city centre with an onsen.

Limited Mobility Options

Despite still being quite suburban and close to Tokushima City for half of today’s journey, I feel options for those with limited mobility are getting worse by the day.

On this day, I covered nearly 50km by bicycle, and basically, after T6 and until T11, ther eis no public transport -and a fair bit of distance to cover. There is no public transport to T10. T11 and T14-16 are not far, 2.5km at the most, from JR’s Tokushima Line, which runs to the South of Yoshino River. T13 is next to a stop of the Amanohara Nishi (17) and Ichinomiya Lines, which run roughly every hour between the suburb of Nyutacho and Tokushima Station, so it will be a lot of going from and returning to Tokushima Station. My advice would be to use a taxi to T10, on to T11, then consider walking or continue by taxi.

For T7-T17 hiring a car for the day would make a lot of sense. Also it would be an extremely packed day, seeing 11 temples in a single day. T14-17 are somewhat easier by public transport should you run out of time.

The Small Print

I visited Japan in June 2026, where I spent most of my two-week trip cycling the Tokushima section of the Shikoku 88-Temple Pilgrimage. This trip was entirely self-funded.

• Today’s total mileage: 47km, all by bicycle, except for the steps up to Kirihata-ji
• Temples Visited: 5 (T10-15, left out T12)
• Food: Excellent, one of the best eating days… lunch at Deta Sushi, a dinner feast at Urokorou
• Money Spent: Moderate (a hakui, 5 temple stamps, postage stamps, nice luncheon, konbini snacks, mid-priced ryokan)
• Spiritual Enlightenment: Getting there

Nothing you see here was sponsored, and I did not receive compensation, discounts, or special treatment in exchange for writing it. All my own honest and unbiased opinion. This post does contain affiliate links to accommodation I stayed at as well as some good accommodation in the area which I researched and would consider staying at. If you book a hotel using my affiliate links, I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please refer to my blog’s Terms and Conditions for further information.

This post (well, my entire blog, except this) is free from generative Artificial Intelligence. 

As with all my “diary” travelogue posts, I have not bothered with a pin.