Love “The Makanai”? Visit Makanai filming locations in Kyoto!

Do you love “The Makanai”? I did, from minute one. Normally, I am not a big fan of TV dramas, but in an attempt to study Japanese, I tried some Japanese TV series and I loved “The Makanai”. I must have watched it about six times now, and I really loved wandering around the Makanai filming locations when visiting Kyoto.

“The Makanai” Netflix Series

This heart-warming show’s full name is “The Makanai : Cooking for the Maiko House” , or in Japanese “舞妓さんちのまかないさん” (Hepburn: Maiko-san chi no Makanai-san) by Kore-eda Hirokazu.

This beautiful series is a prime example of how a well-executed , entertaining and beautiful work can draw you into a certain culture. Speaking for myself, I was never really interested in geisha. Vintage kimono were for remaking, tea ceremony was a lot of faff when you could just make matcha in under a minute, the shamisen music strange to my ears and the geisha aesthetic pretty but nothing I took much of an interest in.

I managed to visit Kyoto for the first time when “Memoirs of  Geisha” first came out, and many American tourists fresh off the Shinkansen would flock to Gion, and I managed to ignore it almost completely. I only stumbled across Shirakawa Lane by accident, when I got tired from walking around temples and was looking for the train back, but I have loved this area ever since – but with my last trip to Kyoto back in 2008, I can safely say things were a little different, then.

Should you visit Gion in times of overtourism?

This is a contentious topic. Gion is extremely popular with tourists and can get incredibly crowded, so that the city has limited access to parts of Gion. But… most Makanai Filming locations are in Gion. So, let’s take a closer look at Gion.

Gion is a part of central Kyoto, roughly between Gojo-dori (National Route 1) to the South, the Kamo River to the West, Higashioji-dori including Yasaka Shrine to the East and Sanjo-dori to the north. When you come by bus from Kyoto Station, you would alight at the Gion Bus stop and immediately be greeted by one of the gates to Yasaka Shrine, one of Kyoto’s most venerated shrines and host of the annual Gion Matsuri.

Shijo-dori is one of Gion’s main East-West routes. It is basically a traffic-choked avenue lined with a mixture of tourist shops and cafes and centuries-old establishments catering to the entertainment industry.

North of Shijo-dori is the more heterogenous part of Gion, with the incredibly picturesque Shirakawa canal, some bars and restaurants and some beautiful traditional quieter streets like Shinmonzen-dori and Furomonzen-dori.

South of Shijo-dori, you find the Gion popularized by tourist publications: the exclusive tea houses, private streets now closed to outside pedestrian traffic, around the touristy Hanamikoji-dori, with Kennin-ji and a number of more peaceful smaller temples and shrines.

A shrine I love to visit again and again is Yasui Konpira-gu – although it does not feature in the Makanai, it is a lovely shrine with a special function – you can undo “bad” connections and forge good ones by crawling through its special stone – and back.

It also holds the traditional Gion Kobu Kaburenjo Theatre and the larger, purpose-built “tourist”  Gion Corner next to it.

Strictly speaking, the greater Gion area holds  several entertainment districts where geisha entertain, the so-called “hanamachi” or “flower districts”. First, there is Gion Kobu, which most visitors associate with Gion.

Gion Kobu encompasses an area bordered by Shijo Street, Yasaka Shrine and the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo theatre and lies south of Shijo-dori. There are eleven active geisha houses (okiya) at present.

Gion Higashi is a smaller hanamachi north of Shijo Street. It was parted from Gion Kobu in the late 19th Century . Their symbol is a stylized single skewer of dango (looks like three balls on a string on a red background). Their School of Dance is Fujima and at present, there are five okiya.

To be honest, please do visit – and  be a good tourist. Stick to the rules – they are posted everywhere. Walk, don’t block the way for others, take photos with caution and don’t disrupt privacy – no stepping into private yards, private roads, taking close up photos of other people only with explicit consent, no loitering, blocking the way, littering, etc. It’s all common sense but I was shocked so many people apparently not having one. Go to the bars, spend money, appreciate the beauty and history without making a nuisance of yourself.

And now… story time

At the risk of this post becoming a long Japan-centric rambling post, let me tell you a little story right from the centre of Gion.

I was on my way to Shimogamo Shrine on my bike on a Sunday Morning. Instead of cycling along featureless Higashioji-dori, I thought I loop through Gion. Because it’s beautiful.

I stopped for a coffee on Shirakawa Canal, at the only tiny coffee stall open at this time. Sitting on the bench with my cappuccino, making small talk with the coffee shop guy and a local lady walking her dog, we saw a beautiful dressed up couple approaching. “Wedding shoot” the coffee shop guy said. “They do them here before the ceremony because it is too crowded in the day. ” So we watched from our bench, gave a little smile and and wave, and then I continued my way, taking a few photos of Tatsumi Shrine, keeping a respectful distance to a couple more wedding and family photo shoots. Now a group of French-speaking tourists enters from Tatsumi Bridge, and what do they do? Start going really close to these families and taking pictures of them, getting in the way of the photographer. and their guide? Does nothing.

One handled it well, shooing them off in English, the other photographer, who appeared not to speak English, was much more hesitant. I kinda stood by, and then thought, do I want more access capped to well behaved visitors and barked at them in French that it’s not okay and to get lost. Yes, a bit rude, but I was quite upset on their behalf.

They were tourists, I am a tourist. And no, in this case it wasn’t people from a different culture to my own, it was people who should know better. Nothing, absolutely nothing can excuse this kind of behaviour, and this may well be one of the reason why Kyoto closed some of Gion’s streets to tourists.

So, when you visit places like Gion, please be considerate, don’t make a noise, don’t block the way, don’t take pictures of people you don’t know.

Sites in Gion from The Makanai

Let’s move on to location from the Makanai now. Many are in what is considered a very touristy area in Gion. Please visit with respect. Note that the lane in Kyoto leading to Saku House and Saku House itself were shot in a studio, so you will not find them wandering around Gion.

Yasaka Shrine

if you arrive by bus, the red laquered portal to Yasaka Shrine will greet you as you alight, and it makes perfect sense to start and end your Gion walk here!

This very large shrine dating back to pre-Heian era has always been associated with Gion and its famous Gion festival, for the kami residing at Yasaka Shrine ( chief kami Susanoo, the kami of wind and the sea, with his consort Kushinadahime and Yahashira-miko) were thought to have something to do with a 9th Century plague epidemic and needed to be appeased… hence a festival for their benefit. The Gion Festival is in summer, but in the “Makanai” you never see much of Yasaka shrine, yet it is referenced throughout the series, mostly in the New Year episode, when Kiyo and Sumire carry back some of the embers after their New Year’s shrine visit.

It is open 24 hours and gets extremely busy during the day, so I highly recommend to visit there very early – after sunrise is best. The site is quite large, with many smaller sub shrines, and for your creature comforts, Shijo-dori with its numerous cafes is close by.

Tatsumi-jinja

Perhaps the most recognisable site from the Makanai, and one that features in the previous little story – it sits on a very prominent position next to Shirakawa Canal, and it small but very picturesque. It is in pretty much every episode of the Makanai.

It sits at the start of incredibly picturesque Shirakawa Lane, and its name and location to the Southeast of the Imperial PAlace suggest that it protects the Southeasterly direction, other lore is that it is to appease bothersome tanuki or leopard cats in the area… but traditionally it was known as a shrine where geiko and maiko pray to refine their arts. Whether they still do this in practice, I do not know, as this shrine as always extremely busy with tourists in the daytime, and there are signs asking for considerate behaviour absolutely everywhere.

Tatsumi Bridge and Shirakawa Lane

Hyped as “Japan’s most beautiful Street” and full of bars and restaurants, this short lane in Gion gets very busy. Honestly, I do not know how they actually filmed all the scenes here because it is incredibly busy with tourists. So, in order to preserve some of the peaceful vibe from the show, I really recommend you visit in the early morning, around sunrise should be good.

I walked there in relative peace several times, any time until 8am is usually ok. Last time, there were cherry blossoms alson Shirakawa Canal, and it was so stunningly beautiful.

About halfway down Shirakawa Lane, you will pass the Kanikakuni Monument – a stone inscribed with the poem “Kanikakuni” by Isamu Yoshii who had a deep love for Gion. Mother Azusa is passing here several times and bowing, although it has no real religious significance. The poem, a very short one, can be translated as “Oh so deeply I love Gion/
Even in my sleep/ The stream runs beneath my pillow”. If you happen to be around on November 8, you can observe a very brief memorial ceremony by geiko or maiko at the memorial.

Oda Inari Shrine

Even smaller than Tatsumi-jinja, the Oda Inari Shrine sits between traditional townhouses – a temple or shrine has been here nearly 1000 years, and it was once part of Kennin-ji. It was built by a brother of warlord Nobunaga Oda, and features a lot of elegant fox statues.

It features a few times in the show when Momoko goes to pray there in Episode 4. The shrine is in a private road, so visit quietly and inobtrusively.

Gion Kobu Kaburenjo and Minamiza Theatre

These two are of Gion’s main performance venues. Minamiza Theatre is at the Kamo River end of Shijo-dori, a venerable Kabuki venue housed in a picturesque Art Deco Japanese building which features a little bit in Episode 6. You can buy tickets to regular kabuki plays easily.

However, most theatre shots are from the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo, the traditional Gion dance performance venue, most famous for the annual Miyako Odori. If you are in Kyoto during the month of April, I do recommend buying a ticket for the Miyako Odori online, as this might be the most budget conscious way to experience a performance by maiko. Failing that, there are similar events at Pontocho’s Kabukai in May and throughout the year at Kamishichiken Kabukai. An annex of Gion Kobu Kaburenjo called Gion Corner holds nightly 45min shows that are a lot more touristy and feature a bit of everything going on in Kyoto culture, but I have not been to that show.

You can now loop back to Yasaka Shrine along Shijo-dori, and pop into Eirakuya or Kazuraseii for a small souvenir, or take some refreshment in one of the many cafes lining this busy street.

 

Other Kyoto sites from The Makanai

Outside Gion, you will find plenty other sites that featured in “The Makanai”, starting with Kiyo’s and Sumire’s arrival in Kyoto in Episode 1, with sweeping views over the Kamo River from Donguri-dori bridge a few minutes into the show.

Some are easily walkable, but others require transport – I suggest seeing these on a leisurely half-day cycle ride. Which, with shopping, lunches and coffee, can easily be turned into a day trip!

Ipponbashi

Not in Gion, but not far, and in a very beautiful place. You can see it in several episodes, when Kiyo returns from the sento and balances across a very narrow bridge. This is Ippon-bashi, a tiny concrete bridge over Shirakawa Canal Higashioji and Sanjo streets. This section of Shirakawa Canal is a rather quiet backwater, and a lovely shortcut for walking from Gion to Okazaki Park and Heian-jingu.

The bath house (Yanagi no yu) – closed

The traditional public bath house used in the series is called Yanagi no yu. It is located just outside Gion on Shin Yanagibaba dori, but has closed down. Fortunately, there is quite an active sento culture in kyoto, so you can visit a traditional sento in or near Gion as a tourist.

The sento directly in Gion is Atarashi-yu on Furumonzen-dori. Most were built during the Showa era, so have some vintage charm, but for a very old and really picturesque ones, you’ll have to travel to northern kyoto and visit Funaoka Onsen/note that the sento in central Kyoto do not have natural hot springs – for a natural spring, you’ll have to travel a bit outside the city to Arashiyama or Kurama. The public sento are quite welcoming, but make sure you follow the sento and onsen etiquette.

Turtle stones

These pretty stones serve as a pedestrian crossing over Kamo River in Episode 7 and are a good walk from Gion, near Demachiyanagi Station on Keihan line. And, you can totally use them to cross the river, and they are not busy. Then you can visit a second site, the Demachi Masugata Shopping Street, where a lot of Kiyo’s food shopping scenes were filmed, along with the croquette shop. I passed those stones several time, as it’s a lovely cycling route, but failed to take a photo so far.

Kamigamo Shrine

You will not see much of the actual shrine, but this is the place where Mother Azusa takes her suitor, Professor Tanabe, for a leisurely stroll. Kamigamo Shrine is, in fact, way away from Gion in Northern Kyoto and can be seen on a nice Kamo river bicycle ride.

A Shotengai

The one shown where Kiyo is doing her shopping is the Demachi MAsugata Shopping Street (出町桝形商店街) just northeast of the Imperial Palace Park. You will find down-to-earth food and house wares shops, far away from the tourist crowds. There is also the croquette shop featured in Episode. And while you are there, try the mochi at Demachi Futaba, a traditional sweets shop, which may not be featured in the series but is quite the Kyoto institution.

There are plenty livelier shotengai, starting with Nishiki Market and Teramachi, which tend to be pretty touristy. Teramachi in particular is several kilometres long, and for me, only the bit just south of the City Hall is worth checking out. This short section has Kyukyodo, a venerated Kyoto paper and incense shop, Musubi, where you can find fun yukata in Western-friendly sizes, and the legendary retro Smart Coffee.

The other one I really like is Kyoto Sanjo Shopping Street. Start at the beautiful late Edo incense store Hayashi Ryushodo, then cross Horikawa-dori and enter this very long shotengai. Although it’s central, it’s not touristy at all. Closest station for this is Nijojo-mae on the Kyoto Metro.

Shiramine Shrine

Shiramine Shrine, the “Sports Achievement” shrine seen in Episode 4, is between Horikawa-dori and The Imperial Palace. Imadegawa is your nearest station on the Metro. The shrine is quite new, dates back to the Meiji era and is a site for prayer for success in sports, especially football. It is extremely peaceful and not a touristic site at all.

Atago Shrine in Arashiyama

This is the shrine of Kiyo’s nocturnal visit to procure a fire protection omamori after a pan caught fire in the saku house kitchen. Just to confuse, you, there appear to be two Atago Shrines in Kyoto. The one on Mount Atago in Arashiyama is the one you want – but beware, it’s a roughly 9km uphill hike from one of the Arashiyama train stations. Two temples on the way, Otago Nenbutsu-ji and Adashino Nenbutsu-ji , have become a bit insta-famous as “off the beaten track” sites. The special pilgrimage Kiyo went on to obtain a fire protection omamori is on the night from July 31st to August 1.

 Shops and Restaurants

Here I will list a few places that get a mention or feature in the series, or that are strongly associated with the Gion geiko community- with no claim to completeness.

Coffee Shop Nōen

Hidden in plain sight on Shijo-dori, this old-fashioned coffee shop is where the father- and son dresser duo, Takeshi and Hiroshi, meet and chat in Episode 8. It was closed when I walked past, so I did not get to go inside.

Micasadeco & Cafe Kyoto AKA “Fluffy Pancake Restaurant”

Kiyo and Sumire visit this cafe on their day off in Episode 4. Micasadeco is a cosy-looking cafe very close to Nishiki Market in Kyoto, one of the most touristy bits. I tend to avoid Nishiki Market – only skirt Termachi every now and then to visit Sou-Sou or Nomura Tailor, but the reviews are almost Japan-perfect at 3.5 on Tabelog, so I am going to try it out, especially after the pancakes I hd in Japan so far (Hoshino Coffee) have been middling to say the least.

The address is 〒604-8057, 480 Umeyacho, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto

 Kazurasei

Here is a shop that has served the geisha since 1865. I am fairly certain I was immediately drawn by the classy hair ornaments, and remember buying something there on my first Japan trip in 2004… At present, the shop front is not easily recognisable – I think there are some building works – but enter through a narrow lane, and you will find anything from charming boxwood combs, reasonably priced camellia oil for hair and body to the almost priceless elaborate kanzashi maiko and geiko wear.

The address is 〒605-0073, 285 Gionmachi Kitagawa, Higashiyama-ku, Kyoto

 Okada-ya (Seaweed Shop)

Again, while Kiyo appears to walk there in Episode 7 to find kelp fr broth cooked from scratch, it is a bit of a trip from Gion. The shop is called Okada-ya and is in Imadegawa – easily combined with a visit to Shiramine Shrine.

The address is 岡田屋（昆布）(shop name), 〒602-8406 Keikaincho 140, Kamigyo-ku,Kyoto,.

 Tanaka Katsuboshi Shop

In the same episode, when making soup for Sumire, Kiyo buys freshly shaved katsuboshi from an old-fashioned shop. Of course, you can buy dashi, kelp and also katsuboshi in supermarkets, but for real foodies, visiting these traditional shops is a real treat. For this one, you will have to traverse town from the seaweed shop, as it is near To-ji to the south of kyoto Station

The address is 田中鰹節店 (shop name), 〒601-8453 55 Karahashi Rajomoncho, Minami-ki, Kyoto.

 Cool tenugui shops

Yes! I love tenugui, the dinky Japanese cotton towels that double as scarves, hairbands, gift wraps and napkins. They make excellent mementos and souvenirs. A tenugui is not an essential geisha accessory; however, you see Kiyo wearing some throughout the series. Kiyo’s tenugui are all from Kawamanu, a Tokyo-based company that does not have a physical store in Kyoto. I found two by chance at the Ohara Museum in Kurashiki for 1400 JPY each, which is a good prize considered they are yuzen-dyed.

Another really nice producer of yuzen-dyed tenugui is Sakai-based Nijiyura. They are available country-wide, and there is a small standalone store near Shijo-Karasuma in Kyoto. If you happen to visit Sakai, you can buy plenty at the lovely Traditional Craft Museum shop there, too.

Last not least, I could not get away without mentioning Eirakuya, the traditional Kyoto-based tenugui producer who are actually Japan’s oldest tenugui manufacturer. Their designs are more intricate with a strong Kyoto theme, and quality is very good – but prices can be double or triple that of the other two producers I mentioned. Their headquarters also doubles as a public museum called Hosotsuji Ihei Museum.

Where to learn about and where to meet Geisha

If you want to learn about the geisha culture, Gion might be the classic place to visit, especially if you also want to visit sites from The Makanai.

But Gion is not the only place, and just a little detour will take you to other entertainment quaters.

A little south is the small district of Miyagawacho, roughly between Kennin-ji and the Kamo river/ you will see the symbol of three interlocked rings here.

Across Kamo river, you have Pontocho, which has the plover as its symbol, now mostly given over to restaurants and bars running along Kamo River.

And then, quite off the beaten track, Kamishichiken (symbol: a ring of dango looking a bit like a wreath) near Kitano Tenmangu shrine. The latter might be a good option if you prefer fewer crowds and want some geisha-led entertainment year round, as the kamishichiken kaburenjo theatre has a very active programme.

Tracking back to Gion, consider visiting a number of small museums worth visiting as well as a load of experiences you can book. Let’s start with the Gion Kagain Art Museum in the Gion Kobu Kaburenjo/Gion Corner Complex. Here’s a very accessible small museum with a permanent collection, and for about 300 JPY, you can experience a short dance performance by geiko and maiko. Perhaps the most budget- conscious way to see geiko and maiko if you are not in town during the dance performances. Another recommended way to meet geisha and maiko would be to join the summer beer garden at the Kamishichiken Kaburenjo, but bear in mind that some spoken Japanese will probably go a long way here. There are many other experiences, starting from around 100 Euro for a tea ceremony – lots of different operators. Not having done one myself, trying to provide an exhaustive list here would certainly go beyond the scope of this post.

 

Should you dress up as a Geisha or Maiko?

So, you’ve seen some beautiful places in Gion, eaten the tiny egg sandwiches and bought some camellia oil. Now, should you go a step further and dress up as a geisha or maiko to emulate the series aesthetics more?

Ha, tricky question. Of course, you definitely have the option to dress up as a geiko or maiko. Is it seen as cultural appropriation? Apparently, the Japanese don’t care, and from what I have heard, actually appreciate when foreign tourists dress in kimono. I was on the fence on this for a long time , but as time went on, I actually got interested in kimono and the aesthetics of another Koreeda TV series called Asura where one character always dresses in kimono.

There is no way I will get a handle on all the accessories needed and the skills to dressing kimono properly, so I am actually going to hire kimono on my next trip to Kyoto – I have done some basic research as to what style kimono will be appropriate for my age, season and occasion, and… never got round to the kimono hire. I bought a vintage iromuji instead.

But to answer your question of kimono hire…go for it. But there are so many hire shops especially in the Gion-Kiyomizu area that will offer cheap looking polyester kimono inappropriate for the occasion and any one knowing a smidgen about kimono will spot the poorly educated tourist. But if you love it – nobody will mind or feel offended. Going full maiko look? Why not? Commercial operators offer it, no one will take offence.

I would recommend finding a god shop which will dress you in an age- and occasion-appropriate kimono for strolling around, explain kimono a bit, and use all the proper undergarments and accessories – in short – proper kitsuke, not shortcut tourist cosplay. Also bear in mind that the shoes that go with proper kimono outfit can be very uncomfortable for walking around, so find some cool photo spots near the hire shop or rely on taxis.

Books about Gion and Geiko Culture

I am not going to rank any books here, but will introduce books i have enjoyed and recommend, so there maybe a few including one quite famous one, missing.

First of all, would the the manga “Kiyo in Kyoto: From the Maiko house” that both the TV series and an anime are based on. It is a manga suitable for older kids and adults that was started in 2016 and up to now, has about 28 volumes. A twelve-episode anime series based on the manga was broadcast by Japanese television station NHK from 2020. I have never seen the manga in the wild, nor have I watched the anime, but i am working on that.

Next up, was Liza Dalby’s “Geisha”. I had it on my bookshelf for years, probably from one of those remainder shops from when I lived in the UK. It is a casual study into 1970’s Japanese geisha , first published in 1983, but with an update in later editions. It is somewhat personal, but i really like her writing style. She has also authored a few Japan-themed novels and a cultural history of kimono, which I hope to read next. All in all, a recommendation. Easy to read yet quite informative piece of popular culture writing.

On the basis of that, I then read  Iwasaki Mineko’s “Geisha of Gion”, an actual , now retired Geiko’s autobiography. Also quite good and plain, a very easy read, and well, written from the perspective of a Japanese geiko. Iwasaki apparently served as the inspirations for Arthur Golden’s fictional “Memoirs of a Geisha” and apparently she felt so misrepresented by his novel, that she felt the need to sue Golden – and to publish her own account. Which, I must say, is pretty good. And a very easy read.

Okay, this list is still quite Anglo-American biased… I will continue reading and find more suggestions; if you have one, please let me know!

Other sources on Kyoto geiko culture

Although I did my own research and visited several spots in early 2024, I must mention this blog by Akiko which is mostly in Japanese but she has listed sites from the Makanai from every episode, andi very grateful this has enabled me to fill some of the gaps like where to get the cool fish tenugui and location of the kelp shop…

I also read a few blogs and web sites about Gion and Geisha. I found Geishakei and John Paul Foster the most informative and beautiful.

Where to Stay in Kyoto for visiting places from “The Makanai”

Gion would be an obvious choice, as this would allow you to visit a lot of the Makanai filming locations in the early morning when Gion isn’t crowded. I have stayed in two places in Gion so far, and I can recommend both.

The first one and an excellent budget choice, is Kiraku Inn, a small guesthouse in an authentic Kyomachiya on Shinmonzen-dori. Yes, it is a bit cramped, and shared bathrooms only, but most rooms are private, Japanese style, and for the location, the price is extremely competitive. The owner is very friendly, and there is also a huge cat – the would fit right in aas some side characters into the series!

Second place I stayed at was a modern-traditional hotel called Gion Shinmonso, just off Shinmonzen-dori.  It cost three times as much in relation to Kiraku Inn, but its rooms are huge, and there is a very relaxing communal bath. You sleep on futon, and although it was perfectly pleasant (and super central) I feel a bit more interior work would give the nicely sized rooms more character, but hey – cannot fault the place.

But for real old-fashioned/cute Kyoto style, where you might think grandma might come around with a bowl of nabekko dumplings – consider Higurashi-Sou Guesthouse. This is also an authentic Kyomachiya that has been sympathetically restored, and its kitchen and dining room exude a lot of charm. It’s small, and nowhere near Gion, but you can rent a bicycle for free, and for the old-fashioned Kyoto charm, this is my top choice.

The Small Print

This post got very long as I added a bit here, a few shops and restaurants there… thank you for making it here! I have been lucky enough to visit Kyoto several times, and the research that went into this post was conducted between 2024 and 2025.

I pay my way, so nothing ins this post is sponsored. The only way i monetize this blog at present is by affiliate links on my accommodations through booking.com.

If you consider buying any of the book, please consider you local bookshop or other online bookshop instead of the big monopoly one.

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