Kyoto for Cats and their People: Nyan-nyan-ji and Nyan-Paku

My recent educational holiday, studying Japanese at Genki JACS in Kyoto, left little time for sightseeing. My friend who had not been to Kyoto for over ten years visited from Tokyo for the weekend. We both did not feel like crawling to the famous sights of Kyoto in a huge crowd. Rather, we planned a nice weekend with interesting sightseeing and good food. It was my friend’s wish to see as much as possible, but not necessarily to walk the trodden paths.

Since we both love cats, we looked for cat-related sights. Commercial cat cafes were a no-go for ethical reasons. There are a few – mostly shrines and temples, housing mysterious cat statues protecting from cancer (Dannō Hōrin-ji, but cat not really accessible), shrines with sizeable well-cared for cat populations (Konoshima Shrine)… but one sight, if you search for Kyoto and “cats” will pop up: a temple dedicated to cats up in Kyoto’s Eastern Hill suburbs called Nyan-Nyan-ji.

“What about cat cafes?” you may ask. To be honest – I have been to a cat cafe once, many years ago. It was nice, cats appeared well looked after, with a separate room to withdraw to. But most cat cafes I read about are for profit, and less for cats welfare. So we both decided to skip them. If it is cat cafes you are after, you won’t find them in this post, although feel free to look up the Cat Retreat at Utanekodo (Central Kyoto) or Japan Cat Network’s Maneki Machiya Cat Cafe. I understand both work with rescued cats and are ethically run.

Getting to Yase

We set off in the early afternoon from Nishijin – not the best starting point but I had a compulsory “cultural class” to attend prior to sightseeing. So, we tool taxi to maximise our sightseeing time.

With more time, you can easily visit on public transport. Using Keihan Railway, you can go from Demachiyanagi Station and change onto the Eizan Line towards Hieizanguchi. Get off at Miyakahachiman Station and walk 400m. Although it’s a pleasant scenery with forested hills and definitely suburban, it’s quite a busy road and not that pleasant a walk. This will give an interesting side trip to the retro futuristic Kyoto International Conference Centre.

Quite a few buses also ply that route, usually stopping near Miyake Hachiman on the Eizan Railway. Or Kyoto Subay Karasuma Line to Kokusaikaikan, then walk 1,6km. Quite a few buses ply that route, both from Kokusaikaikan and stops on the Eizan Line.

On the Way: Renge-ji

Since we saved so much time by splurging on a taxi, and since we both love quiet temples and gardens, we stopped at Renge-ji. Renge-ji is a small Tendai Buddhist temple on the main road to Ohara.

It sees many visitors during autumn leaf season but hardly anyone was there in February. Quiet contemplative, stay as long as you want. Just the right kind of activity after a fairly busy morning spent in culture class which meant sticking to a fairly tight schedule.

Normally it is really undervisited, except in autumn, when the number of visitors surges and it can get very busy. The temple has been in existence for over thousand years – Tendai is one of Japan’s oldest Buddhist schools – but, like so many, got burned down during the 15th Century Onin War, and was rebuilt here at the site of a nobleman’s villa in the 17th Century.

We walked down the quiet cobbled path – it did not look much like a temple from the outside, more like a refined if somewhat dilapidated middle-class residence – had it not been for Boddhisattva and Buddha statues lined up neatly, like in a small theatre, under a roof in the front garden. These are all ancient statues, unearthed during the construction of the Karasuma Metro Line, and brought here to make a splendid welcome committee.

We paid up (500 Yen) in the anteroom, which looked a bit like a storeroom. Only pre-printed goshuin were available, which was somewhat disappointing. Recently, my “normal” goshuin book, which held all temple and shrine goshuin except those for the Saigoku 33 Kannon Pilgrimage, looked a bit like a scrapbook, with goshuin pasted in, rather than the elegant calligraphy directly drawn into the book.

Alas, first world problems. Since I started on the goshuin collection, I compulsively got at least one at each temple or shrine I visit. I noticed that often, the more famous the temple, the more plain the goshuin. Some temples and shrines, have turned goshuin production and issue into an interesting business, and produce the most good-looking goshuin. Not Renge-ji. So, I hurriedly packed it away in its protective paper bag, and we entered the temple proper.

A small but perfectly formed “shakkei” 借景 (borrowed scenery) garden around a pond. It looked, like Entoku-in I saw the day before, a bit sad – brown, pond at low level. I felt like jumping right in and doing a bit of tidying, but instead, we donned the geta and walked a pretty path to the solitary Hondo. Once we put the geta on, the stern woman at the entrance told us, we were not to take any photographs – probably to keep visitors from taking photos of the Hondo and its statues of Shakyamuni and Amitabha, Nyorai, smiling beatifically from the dark.

It felt predominantly… quiet. A place to take a break in a busy day. We sat down on the tatami, admiring the somewhat bare garden. it would have been perfect for a little nap, but sleeping in temples, quite popular in many Southeast Asian countries, is very much frowned upon in Japan.

The Main Hall (Hondo) could be reached by slipping into wooden clogs and traversing the garden. All doors were closed shut – nothing to see there. So, we were left in the company of the hundred-off jizo statues, a slightly grumpy woman minder and an eerily empty shoin, the terrace from where the outside can be admired. It felt a little bit like the temple was in hibernation. I still liked the peaceful atmosphere and wondered how autumn leaf season would transform it.

I didn’t really find out much about the garden. Like the temple conversion, the garden stems back to the early Edo Period and is considered one of the Edo Period’s most well-known temple gardens. Its designer, Ishikawa Jōzan, was a samurai, poet, tea master – and garden designer. His other works that are fairly well-known are the temple garden of Shisen-do, not far from here (and somewhat more rewarding, in my opinion, although I think season matters when you visit), and Shoseien Garden not far from Kyoto Station.

Aside from the beautiful garden, probably better admired at a more… colourful season, there wasn’t much t see. The goshuin-pre-printed. However, I am glad I visited, because I wanted to know about these groups of hyped temples that apparently are the place to be in autumn season, so much that some of these temples have started to take pre-bookings.

So, while the temple doesn’t count as “absolutely must see” in my eyes, it makes a nice stop on the way if you have time. It was certainly a breath of fresh air and very peaceful.

Nyan-Paku

We had a lovely time at Renge-ji, but had not even gotten close to our intended destination for the afternoon. Those buses would not run that often, so our time was up, and we hopped by city bus into the village of Yase. Here, by the way, is where you can catch the cable car to Mt. Hiei, so I am sure I will be back.

We walked up to an inconspicuous house that looked just like someone’s residence from the outside. We were greeted with a, well, Ghibli-esque sight after entering. That plain door was a bit of a magic portal indeed!

On the genkan, we were greeted by a somewhat unusual arrangement. I know people like to seek Studio Ghibli style references. It probably drums up engagement on Social Media. Anyway, I don’t care much about Social Media but here is one to a less famous Ghibli film- who would not feel like in a scene from “The Cat Returns” ? Greeted by a big Golden Paw.

A bit further in, after buying our tickets, there was that famous classic Japanese Edo Period Masterpiece, the golden screen depicting the gods Fujin and Raijin, Gods of Wind and Thunder, which has its home at Kenninji- in the feline version.

The whole building, which, structurally, is still like a residence, is decked out with sculptures and paintings featuring cats, inspired by the world’s famous classic art. Never in my life would I voluntarily have come here, even though I love cats, discounting it as far too cutesy. My contribution, as you might guess, was Renge-ji when we drew up our sightseeing schedule on an Excel sheet. Well, my friend mostly drew it up. She worked in tourism pre-pandemic and is well travelled. So I have my friend to thank for suggesting it.

Starting with the magnificent cat’s earliest history, ancient Egypt, here were important artifacts illustrating Cat’s role in history – with attention to the finest detail.

From carefully analysed excavations, where cat mummies were unearthed

To the early scriptures, carved into stone in great details.

And the Great Feline Pharaoh, whose Sarcophagus and mask was exhibited here, in its golden splendour. And, you know, that was just the beginning, and one room in Cat’s long and glorious history.

The exhibition went on, through all major periods of history.

I am not into anime or characters much, but this was really witty and so cute. Unfortunately, the texts are in Japanese only (99% of the clientele is Japanese) but my friend kindly translated, and, there’s always translation apps. Nyan-paku, or, in plain English “The Cat Family History Museum” opened in spring 2025, after its collection, previously housed at Nyan-nyan-ji, became quite extensive, so that a more permanent home was created for it. The museum is still relatively small, but very detailed. You can see it in 30 minutes, or 60 minutes of you really study every detail.

There was just so much detail, and just to give you an idea, I have included some photos of notable Cats of Japan, too.

It was extremely pleasant, and not busy at all, even on a weekend afternoon. I was a little hesitant to visit, because I am not into cutesy much, but this was so witty and whimsical, with such loving attention to detail, I loved it. I enjoyed it so much. I guess word hasn’t gotten around yet about this wonderful small museum.

Nyan-nyan-ji

With a tight schedule, we said Goodbye to the collection of Nyan-Paku and walked on to the attraction that sparked the trip ut to Yase: Nyan-nyan-ji, the “Cat Temple” at the outskirts of Yase. This also looks pretty much like someone’s residence, and was, in fact, a residence before being converted into a temple. Well, just like its more famous companions Ryoan-ji and Ginkaku-ji, which were residences before they were temples.

So, is Nyan-nyan-ji a temple, or an art exhibition? Well, a bit of both. One would think it is a whimsical cat art exhibition styled as a temple. But from what I read, Nyan-nyan-ji is a proper temple run by the family of Masano Kaya. There are three artists in the family, Abbot Kayetsu Toru (classic temple art painter), Kaya Junko (a felt artist) and Kaya Masano.

But everything has a feline theme, in a way that feels serious yet playful. Just look a the main altar, which has all the elements of a human Buddhist temple, The attention to detail is so stunning.

I don’t know when the temple transformation started, but I think originally the artist’s family purchased the building to showcase the cat art work and the screens dividing the rooms were painted with cats. Eventually, the altars and other elements of a bona fide Buddhist temple were added.

And, although Nyan-nyan-ji has a human priest and multiple human caretakers, there are feline priests as well – you might see them around, or not – as thy might be too busy. None of them live at the temple, but return home with their humans after a day’s duty.

We had a wonderful time at Nyan-nyan-ji, and took our time to enjoy all its rooms. The former exhibition space is now a comfortable lounge with some art, but also sofas for taking a break. And of course, in the reception, which doubles as a gift shop, you can buy lots of original art from various artists.

The building is an older and quite atmospheric residence overlooking a stream. All the art of Nyan-nyan-ji and the Cat Family History Museum is the work of a single artist named Masano Kaya who, sparked by winning a prize for a cat drawing in school, began to create arts with cats, exclusively. For a long time, they sold their art in markets before opening a small shop near Kamo Shrine in 2011. Five years later, through crowdfunding, their family purchased the residence and converted it into Nyan-nyan-ji. All other work was initially housed in rooms at Nyan-nyan-ji before moving to Nyan-paku in 2025.

The building, though residential from the outside, feels like a real temple once you enter, through a small shop – even that is like in many temples now! We had our tickets stamped and received a small omamori.

The goshuin was pre-printed – a slight disappointment, being surrounded by all this very cute cat art!

And finally, after a rather unusual Kyoto afternoon, we caught the bus back from just outside nyan-nyan-ji . Plenty buses will deliver you to the Kyoto Underground at Kokusaikaikan, or Central Kyoto. We finished our evening with dinner at Nanzen-ji Junsei, and then, fortified by a feast of yuba, we went to the Tojo Light-Up event – but that will be a different story altogether.

Where to Stay

There is no need to stay in or near Yase to visit Nyan-Paku and Nyan-nyan-ji. We stayed at Guesthouse Waraku-an, near Heian-jingu, in a lovingly maintained old Kyoto Townhouse, in a large private room, to get a full immersion into old Kyoto style. This comes with some tradeoffs, for example shared bathrooms only and literally no sound proofing. I would still stay there again, as it was really beautiful, and the futon beds were comfortable. We paid around 60 Euro per night for their largest “luxury” room.

A somewhat more modern place, very lovely and budget-friendly is Guesthouse Hyakumanben Cross. It is in a traditional building, but with mostly modern interior in both Japanese and Western style, close to Demachiyanagi, a nice area close to park land, Shimogamo Shrine, a few temples – and very few tourists. Expect to pay about 40-60 Euro per room per night.

For a stay close to Nyan-nyan-ji, the area’s temples and the cable car to Mount Hiei, I would recommend moksa, a modern hotel with a calm Japanese aesthetic, calm and in the hills, yet with great access to public transport (bus and Eizan Railway). Rooms start at around 170 Euro per night.

And, a little further south, convenient for Shugakuin Villa Heihachi Tea House Inn, an incredibly beautiful traditional Japanese Inn in a 450-year old tea house. 

What about the Cat Cafes, then?

I don’t endorse commercial cat cafes, but if your holiday involves cuddling a kitty, try the not-for-profit Maneki Machiya Cat Cafe, not far from Myoshin-ji. It is run by the Japan Cat Network, a cat rescue charity. It has rescue cats, many of whom can be adopted. All proceeds go towards the charity.

Another place that doesn’t look bad on paper is the Cat Retreat at Utanekodo, a bit more central and also entirely run with rescue cats (and a dog), which are not adoptable, but rather live at the Cat Retreat permanently, and you are just a guest. So, in order to no to upset the cats, there are a number of very reasonable rules. It is a little more expensive, but relatively exclusive, and as they say, it is the cats house, and they do not allow many visitors at a time.

The Small Print

I visited Yase while studying at Genki JACS Kyoto in February 2026. This trip was entirely self-funded, in terms of course fees, flights and accommodation. I did, however, take part in workplace scheme in Germany that allows employees ten days of paid leave every two years to engage in educational activities, so on the days I was studying, I was on paid leave from my job.

Nothing you see here was sponsored, and I did not receive compensation, discounts, or special treatment in exchange for writing it. All my own honest and unbiased opinion. This post does contain affiliate links to Booking.com to accommodation I stayed in (Guesthouse Waraku-an) as well as some good accommodation in the area which I researched and would consider staying at. If you book a hotel using my affiliate links, I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please refer to my blog’s Terms and Conditions for further information.

This post reflects my personal opinion and experience and is not a statement of fact about any places or accommodation mentioned in this post. I have decided not to post photos of the interior of the school, since it was impossible to get a photo of the lounge or classrooms without any one in them, but tried to describe them as best as I can.

This post (well, my entire blog, except this) is free from generative Artificial Intelligence.