My Traditional Japanese Ceramics Dream Trip

I love Japan, and I love beautiful things. So it comes as a surprise that I have never been deeply into the art of Japanese ceramics. I mean, I love them, but what I picked up was always very utilitarian, starting my collection in the late 1990s at the legendary Oriental City in Colindale, London, and being a good customer at the Tokyo Tsujiki Outer Market. All are great for everyday ceramics.

When I picked up a Bizenware vase at the fleamarket in Himeji, and when I started making ceramics myself, I became more interested in Japanese ceramics, local styles and famous Japanese ceramics centres. So, little by little, I started collating information on Japanese ceramics. So, this is its result, full of recommendations on great Japanese ceramics.

Japanese Ceramics are worth seeking out

I have been lucky enough to visit Japan a few times, and often I would go to one of the small shops in or near Tsukiji Fish Market and pick up some pretty but inexpensive bowls, sake cups and rectangular plates.  Or a bento box. I bought a small vase in a flea market in Himeji and marveled at its perfectly imperfect irregular shape.

But arty and handmade Japanese  ceramics? Nah. It came gradually after I admired a traditional tea bowl (chawan) owned by a friend, witnessed a tea ceremony in a museum in Stuttgart and watched endlessly calming videos of making tea bowls online.

In a former home, there was  a ceramics workshop open to the public. Can you guess what comes next? One of the first things I tried to make as a Japanese ceramic tea bowl. I now have about five rather misshaped crazy glazed tea bowls, none of which resembles an artful Japanese tea bowl. I am planning to return to Japan in 2020, and although it’s unlikely that it turns into a full-flown pottery trip, a little bit of pottery will find its way in, and as we say in Germany  – “The greatest pleasure lies in the anticipation” – let me share with you the traditional ceramic centres of Japan.

I reached a magnificent mile stone when I studied in Nagasaki in 2023, hired a car and spent a weekend around Imari and Arita, dragging my poor husband through kilns and shops and filling his suitcase with Arita ware.

As I have been to only a few of these places, and rarely got hooked on pottery, this post is still low in pictures.  I have used some Creative Commons Images that other photographers kindly made available, but am replacing it with my own photographs over time.

And here comes the Grand Pottery Tour

Where to start our trip on Japanese ceramics? We could start with the Six Ancient kilns, deemed to be the most important sites for the production of ceramics in  Japan.

They are, East to West, North to South: Tokoname, Seto, Echizen, Shigaraki, Tanba and Bizen. Then I researched more famous ceramics centres, so I have came up with this rather epic trip, which, like my Shikoku Pilgrimage, will be done in stages.

Sorted from the furthest north towards the South and West, I have also included Mashiko, Kyoto, Hagi and Arita. Trust me, there are hundreds more.

Given that I rarely hire a car and drive in Japan, and that the train is the most ubiquitous, most reliable mode of transport, I also  researched mostly train connections rather than roads and buses.

Remember that if you have a JR Rail pass, most of these trips will be included, unless you travel on private train lines. Even some buses are included in the Rail pass. Initially I bought my Japan Rail Pass form the Japan Centre in London, which was extremely straightforward. For online purchases, Japan experience seems to be able to sell it in most European countries online. To cover ALL of the areas listed there, you will need the standard Japan Rail Pass. However, with the changes in pricing a few years back, the Japan Rail pass has become incredibly expensive, so unless you are zooming from Hakodate to Kagoshima a couple time,s it is often not worth the expense. JR West has some good regional passes, and for most other trips, I have stuck to paying for local trips with my IC card and buy single Shinkansen tickets.

Mashiko

Mashiko Pottery has its centre in the small town of Mashiko on Tochigi Prefecture. When you visit Nikko, you will find Mashiko Pottery for sale there. I didn’t have time to visit on my rather busy Tohoku Trip in 2025, but it’s high up on my wish list.

What makes Mashiko Ceramics special?

Mashiko has only really been a pottery centre since the mid-1800’s, was made famous with the revival of the folk craft movement related to designer Shoji Hamada from the 1920’s, and has relatively many expat potters from other countries. It style… simple and rustic, yet with a modernist touch. Looks like a lot of the output is everyday dining ware.

Where can I find it?

In the town of Mashiko in Tochigi Prefecture in Kanto Province just north of Tokyo.

Getting there

Mashiko is not that far Tokyo  yet appears to take unusually long to reach.  Take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Oyama, then change onto the smaller JR Mito line to Shimodate, then the JR Moka Line to Mashiko. Altogether about 2 hours. Another option is to continue on the Tohoku Shinkansen to Utsunomiya, then take  a bus, also about two hours in total.

Where to stay in Mashiko and around

I’ve not been to Mashiko, but I stayed in Utsunomiya before – which would be perfect for visiting Nikko on one day, Mashiko on the other.

I stayed at Kincha Traveler’s Hostel, a beautiful old Japanese residence converted into a simple but cosy hostel – less than 5 minutes walk from the station. Nearby are lots of famous gyoza restaurants, shopping and it’s very quiet.

Out of the glut of business hotels at the station, I would recommend the Candeo Hotel – it’s right in a shopping mall, and less than a minute from the station, with elegant large rooms, a pool and onsen.

What can you see in Mashiko?

The Shijo Hamada Memorial Museum, the Mashiko Museum of Ceramic Art and a Pottery Theme Park, which has an on-site ceramic studio.

Seto

Oh, dear. Have I been? No. But Nagoya is a great place for ceramics, with both Seto in the Northeast and Tokoname in the South, both easily accessible by public transport from Nagoya. To my excuse, I only spent one night and a half day in Nagoya, and cramming in Atsuta-jingu, the Railway Museum, and Osu Kannon (both the temple and shopping). Nsgoya definitely isn’t boring, and I really need to return.

What makes Seto Pottery special?

The Japanese term “Setomono” literally means “ceramics”. There are various sub-types, some of the better known stoneware with yellowish smooth glazes called Shino ware, and also blue- and- white porcelain, mostly antique, resembling antique Chinese porcelain.

Where can I find it?

Around Seto, Northern Aichi Prefecture.

Getting there

Despite being central, its a bit complicated: From Nagoya, take the JR Chuo Line to Ozone, then the private Meitetsu line to Seto. From Kyoto, go to Nagoya first on the Shinkansen.

Where to Stay in Seto

Seto, being a small city that appears to meld seamlessly into Nagoya City, doesn’t have that many places to stay other than standard business hotels. Masukichi is guesthouse, shop and cafe rolled into one and located in a traditional building, its in-house decent sized shops selling Seto Ceramics as well – but there is no shortage of shops in the area.

When I visited nearby Nagoya, I stayed at the standard Business Hotels – the very simple Toyoko Inn Nagoya Minami Meieki of the classic Toyoko Inn chain. Compact, squeaky clean, central, and useful amenities – like a train station shuttle at my hotel. I am a fan, but with so many nice independent places to stay in Japan, I rarely stay there much now.

What’s there?

There doesn’t seem to be a lot, ceramics-wise, at first glance. All I could find on searching the net was the Seto Municipal Center of Multimedia and Traditional Ceramics.  There is also the separate Seto Glass and Ceramics Art Center, which is more like an exhibition of pottery.  However, if you are into cars, the Toyota Museum is nearby!

As with all the ceramics centres of Japan, there will be absolutely no shortage of shops. They are clustered around Owari-Seto train station – and it looks like neighbouring Shigaraki Ware has snuck in there, too, offering quality every day dining ware and, of course, tanuki statues, probably Shigaraki’s most famous product.

Tokoname

Tokoname is near Nagoya and can be visited as a half day trip from Nagoya very easily – or en route to the airport. it’s a beautiful old small town with lots of smaller guesthouses, so makes a great alternative base to Nagoya or Centrair Airport.

What makes Tokoname Pottery special?

It is the most northerly of the six ancient kilns of Japan. Its traditional style wares are reddish-brown clay due to high iron content with little or no glazing. During the industrial revolution,, a lot of the production was switched to utility products and building materials such as tiles, but the area is also famous for its teapots.

Where can I find it?

Tokoname Town (South of Nagoya), Aichi Prefecture.

Getting to Tokoname

JR Shinkansen to Nagoya, then local train, about 40minutes.

Where to stay in Tokoname

Well, Tokoname is another town I have not been yet! I almost went – flying into Nagoya, and spending a couple days in Nagoya and Tokoname, but then the fare jumped up, and I flew to Osaka, as usual. I had to cancel my reservation at Yomogi Guesthouse, a wonderful-looking traditional house with rustic wooden interior and fuss-free elegant tatami rooms.

What’s there?

Internet research shows that Tokoname is a small traditional town. A few minutes walk from the train station, you will find Tokoname City Pottery Footpath, lines with shops and workshops, with very little large-scale production and altogether a rather quiet place. However, some well-known artists still operate in the area, but I have no information on whether they are open to the public.

Echizen Pottery

I am not off to a good start, not having visited many of these famous ceramics centres, am I? At least I can say I have been near Echizen, having visited Fukui Prefecture in Winter 2025. But, getting to Echizen on public transport was not easy, so the more easily accessible Daihonzan Eiheiji Temple won, hands down.

What makes it special?

Similar to Tokoname, a very reddish-brown, often more brownish, little-glazed variety of mostly utilitarian vessels. Echizen also produces a lot of the Washi paper used in Japan today. Oh, and artisan knife-making and soba noodle production.

Where can I find it?

In Echizen, Fukui Prefecture, northwest of Nagoya, almost on the Western Coast of Japan

Getting there

I was in Fukui in January 2025 and it was so time consuming and complicated to get to the Echizen Ceramics Centre that I abandoned my plans of visiting. The town of Echizen is large (about 80000 inhabitants, and very spread out -it’s no problem getting to Echizen town by local train, getting to all the ceramics-related attractions at the rural Pottery Village, it’s at least 10km from the nearest station.

Even with the newly opened Hokuriku Shinkansen access to Fukui, it takes time and effort to get to the Echizen Pottery Park outside Echizen town. It’s all pretty straightforward to Fukui, with Hokuriku Shinkansen services from Tokyo or Thunderbird Express then Shinkansen from Tsuruga. You will then need to take the local Hapi Line, running roughly every half hour, to Kita-Sabae and then, half hour bus ride from there, then walk over half a kilometre. The main problem is that buses don’t run very frequently. It might be worth considering hiring a car and add Echizen Coast, Echizen Washi village, Eiheiji, Echizen Great Buddha and the Dinosaur Museum to your itinerary.

Where to stay in Echizen

There is just one accommodation at the pottery village, so, if you travel by public transport, I recommend staying in Fukui.

I stayed at the Dormy Inn Premium in central Fukui, about five minutes on foot from Fukui Station. It was my first stay at a Dormy Inn, and yes, i’d happily stay there again. The Dormy Inn is pretty much a standard business hotel, with small but comfortable rooms, but All Dormy Inn have an on-site onsen. Yes, not just a hot bath but an actual hot spring bath! The one At Dormy Inn Premium Fukui is spacious, with indoor and outdoor baths. I paid about 10000JPY, but with a bit of luck, you can secure a deal for about 7000JPY. I was a bit surprised that there aren’t that many accommodation options in Fukui given its considerable size. If you want higher comfort, I would say the Onyado Nono is a good choice – same group as the Dormy Inn, on-site onsen and calm, Japanese style rooms with Western beds.

If you have a car, your budget is bigger and you want to visit Eiheiji as well. I recommend the Hakujukan. This modern ryokan is run by Eiheiji Temple, and although the interior is simple-elegant, there is no monastic sparseness here. Just so you know, if you have a serious interest in Buddhism, you can ask to register at Eiheiji and spend a night at the actual temple, including 4am wake up and meditation.

But, with a car, my top choice would be to stay at the Ryokan Yamazaki on the coast. Traditional building, an onsen, a choice of very large traditional and Western-style rooms, and known for its food. It’s a bit of a splurge stray, with 300-400 Euro per room.

What’s there?

Its seems that once you have managed to reach Echizen Pottery Park, there is quite a lot to see! Or their tourist board is very active. I counted no less than 14 shrines or temples, a “knife village”, a “soba village”, a few places related to paper milling, and, of course, a pottery village. The pottery village has a very appealing website, and offers a lot of activities, and there is a large pottery festival in May.

You can also look up individual artists on the  Echizen Ware Industrial Cooperative Association, which produce a variety of styles rather than the traditional brown pots!

Shigaraki Pottery

Finally, perhaps one I have visited… nope. But since Shigaraki Ware is very popular and produced in large quantities, with the tanuki being Shigaraki’s most popular output, you will come across a lot of Shigaraki ware in the area and all over Japan.

What makes it special?

Firstly… this is the place where Japan’s tanuki, or racoon dog statues, are made! They even populate the platforms of the train station! While the legend of teh Tanuki’s talent is ancient, the first tanuki statues did not appear until the Meiji era, and the tanuki you see today spring back to an imperial visit to Shigaraki in the 1950’s, where an IMperial visit to Shigaraki popularized them throughout Japan.

The local clay is sandy and of a yellow colour, and traditional pieces have been described as rather archaic in shape. Their natural glazes can be pleasingly gold to yellow in tone.

Where can I find it?

In Shiga Prefecture, Kansai Region, Western Honshu. Its capital is the City of Ōtsu.

Getting there

On the Tokaido Line (not Shinkansen!) from Kyoto JR Station or Osaka (or Nagoya) to Kusatsu Station. Then, change onto a JR train to Kibukawa. THEN… another train on the private Omi or the Shigaraki Kogen Railway.

The MIHO Museum can be reached by JR train from JR Kyoto to  Ishiyama on the JR Tokaido Line, then by bus. Between Shigaraki and the MIHO Museum, although they are maybe 5km apart, there is no public transport! So, perhaps a taxi.  An alternative would be an organised tour out of Kyoto or Osaka which combines the two sites.

Where to Stay

I’d probably stay in Kyoto, which, except during High Season of Cherry Blossom Viewing, Golden Week and Autumn Leaf Viewing and usually has plenty of accommodations for every budget. I have a separate post on my favourite Kyoto accommodations, but if it’s your first visit, I would recommend the pleasant Kyomachiya Ryukan Sakura Urushitei, a mid-size hotel with cultural activities and extremely helpful multilingual staff in walking distance to the station.

If you are planning many day trips from Kyoto, Piece Hostel (budget, but has private rooms and dorm rooms) and Henn na Hotel Premier right by Kyoto Station are great – but buses to the famous Higashiyama sights are often crowded, so I recommend starting early or taking taxis. Other buses from Kyoto Station are usually fine, and let’s not forget the access to Kyoto Metro, which is a lot faster than buses – but a transfer is usually required to get to Kyoto’s famous sights.

What’s there?

First of all, try to combine a trip to Shigaraki with the visit to the modernist MIHO Museum which holds a large private collection of crafts from all over the world. And yes, there is another Ceramic Cultural Park, but it’s said to be quiet, with a heavy emphasis on racoon dogs, and with lots of showrooms.  Also, Koka Town is known for its ninja association, with the appropriately named “village” and museum.

Kyoto Pottery

Most Japan trips will include a visit to Kyoto, where locally made ceramics called Kiyomizu-yaki or Kiyo-yaki, are very accessible. Visiting the actual ateliers or kilns is a different matter – they are not that easily visited, but Kyoto is a city with several ceramic traditions.

What makes it special?

Perhaps the variety of styles? All Kyo ware is produced in Kyoto, and that’s what they have in common. Well known styles include Raku ware, fired at low temperature with soft glazes and reduced, and famous in Europe. Many of my beloved tea bowls, and many of those teabowls you can admire online, care raku fired.

Another well-known type is Kiyomizu-ware, made in a district around Kiyomizu-dera temple.

Raku firing is also very popular in Europe and the US, where many vessels are wheel thrown. A Japanese raku bowl is usually formed/pinched by hand. Many tea ceremony bowls are made this way. Perhaps this is also the style I am most interested in, but how tricky is it to visit an actual workshop? Add to that that singular raku chawan (tea bowls) are very highly prized and not your average holiday souvenir.

Getting there

The home of Kyo pottery is perhaps the easiest place to get to, as Kyoto is extremely well served by JR Shinkansen from Osaka, Tokyo, and many other cities in Japan, and therefore easily accessible.

Where to stay in Kyoto

Kyoto has perhaps the widest range of accommodation in all of Japan. From a bed in a very large dorm to the country’s finest (or most famous) ryokan.

I have stayed in so many guesthouses and hotels in Kyoto, and I have rarely been disappointed. If you wish to stay close to the area where Kyo-yaki is traditionally made, then the Kiyomizudera area would be suitable, but to be honest, there are so many ceramics shops all over Kyoto, any area you like is good. I have a separate post on my favourite Kyoto accommodation. If this is your first trip to Kyoto, and you wish to take day trips then a hotel near Kyoto Station, though not terribly atmospheric, is the most convenient to save transit time. I recommend Piece Hostel Kyoto (budget, dorms and private rooms), Henn na Hotel Premier (mid-range, quirky concept, huge rooms, some with Shinkansen view) or Kyomachiya Ryokan Sakura Urushitei (upper midrange, very helpful staff, tasteful cultural experiences for guests). Splurge stay? Well… I do them rarely, and can recommend the five-star Gate Hotel Takasegawa for a moderately prices splurge stay, I paid around 120 Euro per room in winter 2026. Although most of the hotel is modern (extension), it is in a converted elementary school which was one of Kyoto’s first Western buildings. It is simple yet elegant and has won some design awards.

What’s there?

If you want to see the popular styles and shop, all you need to do is go to the foot of Kiyumizu-dera temple and stroll the lanes leading up to or away from the temple. Gojo-zaka is convenient for the bus stop, and downhill, choose Zannen-zaka to view traditional houses, tea shops and ceramic shops. A lot of the pottery in the souvenir shops may be mass-produced yet no less pleasing and of nice quality.

A very well-known shop on Zannen-zaka, and right on the tourist trail is Shoindo (松韻堂). The ceramics certainly aren’t cheap, as the ware is often hand painted, but you certainly get the hand made ceramics here. I visited in 2025, and the pieces are stunning. Other reputable shops in the Kiyomizu area are the Kyoto Ceramic Center, and basically Chawan-zaka and Sannenzaka leading up to Kiyomizudera have many ceramics shops, but may sell other Japanese or even imported ceramics.

If it’s famous Kyoto tea ware you are after, it’s worth paying a visit to the area where Kyoto’s famous tea schools, Omotesenke and Urasenke, are located. Several fine tea ware stores showcase Kyoto’s finest tea wares, with Kiyomizuyaki tea bowls starting at around 3000JPY… and going into several hundredthousand.

For seeing how Kiyomizu-ware is made, you may need to visit the town of Kiyomizu-Danchi on the east side of Kyoto. There is a cluster of ateliers and shops around the Kiyomizu-Danchi Park. It may be a bit tricky to reach from Downtown Kyoto on public transport, though Higashino Station on the Tozai Line might be a good bet, or a bus from Kyoto Station.

I have been to Kyoto about ten times now and would always go back there, as I have not seen enough of it. Maybe next time I try to find, so Kyoto might be a good place to start exploring, and also makes a good base for other pottery areas, as some can be reached in a day trip from Kyoto.

Tamba Pottery

In May 2024, I finally visited Tambasasayama – a small part of my ceramics dream trip completed!

What makes it special?

Tamba, or Tanba, is one of the six ancient kilns. It appears to be another rustic type pottery like Tokoname, Echizen or Bizen. Over the years, many different firing techniques have been applied, and typical are “natural” white-ish and greenish glazes, with many pieces being used for tea ceremonies.

When I visited Sasayama, I noticed at least five ceramics shops and at least one atelier in the Kawaramachi old house district. Many sell ceramics from all over Japan, and Tambayaki stood out as cheerful, rustic yet beautiful ware in rich colours.

Where can I find it ?

In Sasayama and Tachikui Villages, Hyōgo Prefecture, North of Kobe.

Getting there

I thought this was tricky, as its rather remote and hilly, but as so often, a great official provincial tourist website called Travel Hyogo suggests that Tachikui Pottery Village is only 15min by bus from Aino Station on the  JR Fukuchiyama Line from Osaka. You could also get off halfway in Takarazuka which has hot springs. And a Manga museum.  This is no Shinkansen Line, the fastest train is a Limited Express, so I guess, maybe an hour to 1.5 hours to Aino.

When I visited, I picked the small town of Sasyama as it appeared easier to reach on public transport, had some phantastic accommodation options, and lots of really stylish shops and cafes, museums…although Tachikui has more pottery studios but very little else. I took a local train from Osaka to Tambasasayama, then an hourly bus to Sasayama.

Where to Stay in Tambasasayama

Basically, most of the accommodation is in Sasayama, a very pleasant small town, easy to reach on public transport. I stayed at Oito Guesthouse, a converted shop house in the Kawaramachi District. The bus stops 100metres away, the guesthouse is super stylish in a pared-down old-meets modern style. It has just two rooms with a beautiful cafe downstairs. My room, although the cheaper one, was huge, had two super comfortable Western style beds, but I needed to go down the stairs and through the cafe to the bathroom. But then, the cafe was basically my personal living room after 17.00. Highly recommend it, but there are at least ten great guest houses in Sasayama.

Une Stay and Diner is another really beautiful one in a central location. Last not least, if you travel with a little group, check out the L’Hotel Du Mai. It is a converted bank and has just one suite and has featured in books and design magazines.

What’s there?

Tachikui has a rather organised looking “Pottery Village” that offers classes. The whole Hyogo prefecture appears rather attractive, to be honest, while remaining low-key.  While you are there, and have time, why not visit the amazing Himeji Castle? Never in my life had we had such an amazing detailed tour running about three hours by a volunteer English guide. It was restored for five years but re-opened in 2015. Total highlight of my second Japan trip in 2005!

Having been there, I would now recommend Sasayama as your base. It is a superb small town with beautiful old buildings that isn’t overly touristy. I think most visitors are Japanese and visit on weekends.

Bizen Pottery

Bizen was to be my next trip, but I decided to visit Wakayama instead of cycling the Shimanami Kaido and then, on my second attempt, I was sidetracked by a Yanobe Kenji exhibition in Osaka – so, no Bizen trip for me yet. You can, however, see a lot of Bizen Ware on display and for sale in nearby Okayama and in Kurashiki

What makes it special?

Fired at a high temperature for about two weeks, it is known to be hard and resilient. Like many, it is often left unglazed and it can have a little bit of natural glaze.

Where can I find it?

Imbe Town, Okayama Prefecture, Sanyo Region, Western Honshu.

Getting there

It is near the Shinkansen train line, but the Shinkansen does not stop there. The nearest Shinkansen station is Okayama. From there, take the JR Akō line towards Osaka to Imbe Station, which takes about 35 minutes from Okayama.

Where to stay in Inbe

Imbe has just two hotels, Inn Tokiwa and Bizen Hotel Sue. Both look really nice, with rates from 50 Euro per room, but Inn Tokiwa (traditional) has a Japanese website only, and Hotel Sue (beautiful modern style) is unmanned.

If you can, consider staying in Kurashiki (25min by train in the opposite direction), stay in one of the old ryokan in the Bizen Quarter and get this incredibly atmospheric place all to yourself in the evening. Ryori Ryokan Tsurugata was my induction to the refined world of ryokan, many years back, and, although classic, it is affordable and welcoming -and the food out of this world.

Or stay in Okayama – a very pleasant city, with one of Japan’s top three gardens, a nostalgic tram (complete with cat mascot) , and generally a good hub since it’s a principal stop on the Sanyo Shinkansen, with great day trips to Kurashiki, Bizen, the Seto Inland Sea islands, and Kibi Plain. Hotels near the station tend to be chain hotels, and the four-star Mitsui Garden Hotel looks the nicest of the bunch.

What’s there?

Bizen, like many of the others, is a small town, and there is the usual museum dedicated to the craft, the Bizen Pottery Traditional and Contemporary Art Museum. I have absolutely no idea whether it is worth the trip… I remember from my trip to Okayama that there were plenty of shops in town selling Bizen ware, and Okayama has the rather nice Kouraku-en, one of the top three Japanese formal gardens, dating back to the 18th Century, with  a castle sitting in its middle.

Hagi Ware

Hagi, another one I haven’t visited. I have been to just a few ceramics centres now and already bought so many cups and dinnerware… I really need to have my money and cards taken away when I do finally make it to all ceramic centres.

What makes it special?

Made from fine clay and  fired at relatively low temperature, Hagi pottery shines through its soft coloured glazes and is traditionally used for tea bowls.

Where can I find it ?

In the City of Hagi, Yamaguchi Prefecture, South-Western Honshu

Getting there

Shinkansen to Shin-Yamaguchi, then the JR Bus to Hagi. Bear in mind you are even further south-west than Hiroshima, so this is some way to go, but with a JR Pass, as many trips as you like are included. The bus alone takes 1-1.5 hours. There is a railway line in Hagi, but this is the coastal Sanin Main line which serves the Western coast of Honshu.

Where to stay in Hagi

I have no idea, since I haven’t been anywhere near there. Hiroshima and Kitakyushu are the nearest cities, and for such a small town, Hagi has a surprisingly large number of hotels – there appears to be quite a scenic coast with a few nice-looking resorts.

I was immediately drawn to the Kominka Guesthouse Hagi Akatsukiya, in a traditional building in the old town. Gorgeous building, looking really cosy, but dorms only. Very cheap, though. I would certainly give it a try if I were travelling alone, it looks really nice. Hagi no Yado Tomoe, a traditional ryokan, is several notches up in price, but also by the seaside, it looks gorgeous.

What’s there?

There appear to be  a number of workshops open to visitors. First, Hagiyaki-Keikan appears to be some craft village with a large number of shops. There are two potters workshops mentioned, too, Genshu-gama and  Senryuzan, where one can have a try at making pottery.

Arita and Imari Pottery

Arita and Imari ware are different to many Japanese ceramics, since they usually made from porcelain clay. Some different clays are also used, and are known as Hizen or Nabeshima ware.  I visited in 2023 while studying in Nagasaki, and the Arita tradition spreads all over Kyushu – in Nagasaki, there was a shrine with a torii amde from Arita porcelain.

What makes it special?

Most ceramics to come out of Arita and Imari are actually porcelain, and are traditionally known as “Japanese porcelain”, dating back to the 17th Century. They typically  consists of white porcelain from local Kaolin,  decorated in overglaze painting in rich detail.

Where can I find it?

Around the towns of Arita and Imari in Saga prefecture in Western Kyushu. While Imari and Arita are production towns, pleasant but not terribly scenic, Okawachiyama, the “Village of the Hidden Kilns” near Imari is where I would head for a stroll and to take photos.

Getting there

This one is a long way south: by JR Shinkansen to Fukuoka (Hakata), then Limited Express trains on the JR Huis ten Bosch and Midori lines, which takes 90 minutes from Hakata. JR Chikuhi Line to Imari or alternatively private Matsura railway from Arita to Imari. Honestly, hiring a car would be preferable

What ‘s there?

Arita Town has a the Kyushu Ceramic Museum. Most other sights are one train station away in the old town of Kami-Arita. Here, there are a shrine, another ceramic museum and ceramic shops. Also… a ceramic-oriented theme park where you can view a pretty realistic looking replica of the Dresden Zwinger Palace! Okawachiyama Village,  is a pottery village with workshops and shops in the mountains near Imari. The Saga Tourist association says there is a bus every two hours, or one can walk in 1-2hours.

Needless to say, this list is by no means exhaustive, and I have tried to include the most popular styles of traditional or art pottery, and I am not an expert on ceramics. Please let me know if you have any more information and I will amend this post to include your suggestions!

Another useful link I have found is an article on kilns where you can make your own pottery.

My visit to Arita and Imari in 2023

Arita and Imari are the first places I have visited on this “dream list”, yay! I studied for three months in nearby Nagasaki, and of course, a trip to the Arita and Imari had to be done! So, here is my little review:

Saga Province is forested, hilly and quite beautiful and really not that much visited. Both Arita and Imari are small towns of moderate charm. Both are full of kilns and ceramics and porcelain shops, and have a few sights in between. Probably most famous is the Tozan Shrine in Kami-Arita, decked out in blue and white porcelain. Also,  Arita has at least five porcelain-related porcelain museums, the largest being the Kyushu Ceramics Museum near Arita Station.

With Arita being very stretched out over about 6 kilometres, we first went “treasure hunting” in the Kourakou Kiln warehouse for decent dead stock and seconds. I would say that although it is near impossible to visit any workshops (to observe the production process), it was a worthwhile visit. I have a lot of blue and white coloured tableware already, so I picked some more cups, square serving places and bowls from the 5500 Yen section – you can read more about my treasure hunting experience here.

We then drove to Okawachiyama. Okawachiyama was my favourite place there due to it being so scenic and beautiful. We visited on a Friday and it wasn’t busy anywhere. Real porcelain -and some of the ceramics- are quite pricey, but extremely beautiful.

For Shopping, Kami-Arita probably has the most independent shops. If you would like to view work from different kilns in one place, Arita Sera about 2km outside the centre in an industrial estate is your best bet. If you have a car and some spare time, visit nearby Hasami with its cheaper price point utilitarian ceramics – and don’t miss the nearby Onigi Ride Terrasses!

On the whole, Arita and Imari have offered the most well-rounded ceramics-related experience so far. Whereas you will mostly find porcelain in Arita,imari has a mixture of both porcelain and stone ware type ceramics. A trip to Okawachiyama outside Imari will let you experience a picturesque historical village, some ancient stepping kilns as well as plenty of beautiful small shops.

For a more quaint style, nearby Karatsu is worth a trip, for its beautiful seaside scenery, castle,  and a smattering of ceramics shops in the town centre.

Where to buy Japanese Ceramics in Japan outside the potteries

Below is a list of places that I have come across and where I found the ceramics selection to be very good.

Local Stores

Smaller family-run ceramics stores are ubiquitous in Japan – both for new ceramics and vintage ceramics. One of my favourite shops is Hasegawa in Kyoto. No website, but if you input ハセガワ陶器店 into Maps, you should find it – it’s just south of the Imperial Palace, a minute on foot from Marutamachi Metro Station. Wonderful shop of Japanese ceramics, low prices, selling mostly Shigaraki ware (including tanuki) and focussed on everyday dining ware, but you can get some fancy Kiyomizuyaki tea bowls.

Tsukiji Outer Market

One of my favourite places to eat and shop  in Japan. Last time I visited, there was still the wholesale fish market next door, which is telling it’s been too long! Its fish market was my favourite place to visit with jetlag at around 5am, followed by sushi for breakfast (my favourite was Sushizanmai back then)  and shopping. It is easy to reach by Metro (Tsukiji). The shop I used to visit, Ichifuji, is still there.

Department Stores

I have seen beautiful traditional tea sets and tea bowls in all “high end” department stores in Japanese cities, for example Mitsukoshi and Takashimaya. I am no expert on department stores though, and prices tend to be higher.

Flea Markets

Last not least, if you just want to see good pottery, visit flea markets and antique markets in Tokyo, Kyoto or Osaka – or whatever you come across locally.

My only personal flea market experience so far is limited to Kansai. My first Japanese flea market experience was 2005 in Himeji, where I bought a small Bizen bud vase for about 1 Euro. I’ve also been to the monthly flea markets at To-ji and Kitano Tenmangu Shrine in Kyoto. I found more ceramics at Toji, primarily local Kiyomizuyaki and regional Shigaraki ware – some at very cheap prices. If you are only just getting into ceramics, Toji is great. I made plans to visit Oedo Antique MArket in Tokyo, but that one got cancelled due to the weather.

In Tokyo, Oedo Antique Market has been recommended. It takes place on a Sunday at the Tokyo International Forum in central Tokyo. Dates for 2020 are Janaury 5, February 2 and 15, MArch 1 and 15, April 5 and 19, May 3 and 17, June 7 and 21, July 5 and 19, August 2 and 16, September 6 and 20, October 4 and 18, November 1 and 15, and December 6 and 20.

In Kyoto, there are three major antique markets: by To-ji temple, Tenjin-san in the Kitano Tenmangu Shrine , which apparently has a lot of antique kimono, and Tezukuro-ichi ,which is mainly a handmade and crafts market.

In Osaka, Tenno-ji is the largest market.

Other Ceramics Centres and towns visited

I am just listing those I have visited, with a few words of information.

Karatsu: Pleasant coastal castle town about 25km from Arita and Imari, with its distinct style of handmade, plain style simple-glazed pieces with little decoration – said to be a classic choice for tea ceremony.

Kanazawa: Two types of ceramics with very different styles: Kutani Ware, which is very bright and colourful, and sold everywhere in town. Given its reasonable price, I think a lot of the decorations are transfers rather than handpainting. Then, the Raku-style Ohi Ware which is basically very pricey tea ceremony ware – best admired at the Ohi Museum, where a selection is available for purchase as well.

Hasami: A spread-out town in Saga Prefecture, this stands in the shadow of Arita and Imari. Mostly everyday use wares, priced accordingly, with several ceramics stores in town and a small ceramics park. Some really scenic rice terraces nearby.

Otani Ware from Naruto, Tokushima: I saw some rather plain ceramics for sale in Tokushima, which are made in Otani. But somewhow, they were shadowed by all the sake, citrus, saltmaking and indigo dyeing traditions of Awa, so sadly, there is no museum, either. However, a trip to Awa-Otani will probably lead to the discovery of a handful of ateliers, small kilns and on-site sales. Lots of rustic more Western shapes, and low prices for such wonderful handmade wares.

Books on Japanese Ceramics and related subjects

The Japanese Pottery Handbook: First published in the 1970’s and something of a classic, this book is 90% graphic, with almost no photographs and text to speak of. It offers a great introduction into Japanese ceramics styles and would be a great place to start, especially if you are considering making your own Japanese style ceramics (Kodansha, ISBN 1568365527)

Inside Japanese Ceramics: A bit more pictorial than the Kodansha Book, and written by an American Ceramics lecturer rather than a Japanese potter. A great book to stat learning (Weatherhill, ISBN 9780834804425)

Kodansha Bilingual Books: I bought a few in a Japanese bookshop and love them. Like the pottery book, they are graphic in style, but show aspects of Japanese life and traditions that you won’t find in travel guides and “etiquette books”.

The Small Print

This post was written ad published in November 2017, and thoroughly revised and updated on 23 February 2025. I have visited Japan about fifteen times between 2008 and now, and try to see something ceramics-oriented in every Japan trip and try to add on to this guide, so this post gets updated regularly. The last update was 30 August 2026.

My Japan trips were self-funded, meaning that I paid for all services on this trip.  I receive no monetary or non-monetary rewards for linking to any of the places and services mentioned,  aside from some affiliate links to Booking.com. You can trust me for the whole, unbiased truth.  More details on my affiliate link policy are here.