Where to try Japanese Incense in Kyoto – and beyond

Japanese Incense is, in my eyes (and on my nose!) one if the best souvenirs you can buy in Japan. If you love the nice smell that permeates Japanese temples and sometimes cafes and public places. Or in general, if you want to bottle a good Japan smell! An incense stick and the pedestrian traffic light “piu-piu” sound.

Japanese incense tends to be light and not cloying, and you can get smokeless versions, and the variety of Japanese incense is amazing. generally speaking, you can buy incense almost anywhere and change are it will be pretty good. Touching on the subject of incense, many incense and paper stores now also sell natural fragrance for your wardrobe and natural bug repellent, too. So, pack your shopping bag and get shopping.

Japanese Incense tradition

Like many things in history, the tradition of offering and burning incense in Japan comes from China and came over to Japan with the introduction of Buddhism in the 6th Century CE. IN the Heian era (794-1185), incense production took a further upswing when imports from China, Korea and South East Asia made traditional ingredients widely available, and the blending technique, pretty much as it is still done today, was established, although the blends were shaped somewhat differently – sticks, another Chinese influence, only came up around the 17th Century.

Long a prerogative of the Nobility and Samurai classes, from the Edo era (1603-1868) onwards, incense became widely available among the middle classes, too. These days, I think temples and shrines are the top customers for incense, but given its widespread availability, it is very popular to use as a natural fragrance in homes and commercial spaces.

You can buy different types of incense, of which I think the ubiquitous sticks are the most convenient. Just light it and enjoy. The classic incense comes as granules, sometimes pressed shapes, and you will need a charcoal burner to use them. Other types of incense can be cones and other pressed shapes.

If you like it simple, then stick to the sticks. For those who do not want an open flame, try smokeless incense that comes in pressed or kneaded small shapes and is heated, not burned. Other ways to enjoy smokeless incense are powders, wood chips and sachets.

How Japanese Incense is produced

Japanese incense is usually made by traditional method from natural ingredients. Popular ingredients are fragrant woods like sandalwood (白檀 /byaku-dan), agarwood (沈香 / jin-ko), roots like ginger lily (san-na), the resins Benzoin, Borneol and Frankincense, and spices. Rather than give you a lengthy excursion into Japanese incense production, I will include some links here that will go into more details. For example, Shoeido have great articles on incense ingredients here and on incense stick production here.

But then, you will get some very popular scents like “plum blossom”, “cherry blossom” or “green tea” for use in the home, too, so I suspect a modicum of artificial fragrance is used as well.

But then, you will get some very popular scents like “plum blossom”, “cherry blossom” or “green tea” for use in the home, too, so I suspect a modicum of artificial fragrance is used as well.

I recently visited the production facilities at Shoyeido Headquarters, where I learned the production steps of Japanese incense – their top range incense is still made on site, from a fragrant dough mix to making, conditioning and packaging the incense – and in their factory, all other incense is made in the same way, except that there is machines performing some of the steps.

Incense Producers of Japan

The ones that spring to mind and that are widely available in Europe and North America are Baieido, Nippon Kodo and Shoeido.

Depending who you ask, Baieido is the oldest purveyor and producer of incense in Japan and goes back to the 14th Muromachi period but was established in 1657 in Sakai near Osaka. The numbe rof incense and different qualities are baffling.

One of their most popular product is a cheap and every day use “plum blossom” incense called Kobunboko in Japanese. It comes in a trade mark dark green box with a golden sprig with plum blossom on it. It’s a great inoffensive starter incense which comes in different varieties. If it’s a pleasant room fragrance you are after, try their inexpensive “Modern Incense” Line smokeless incense with fragrance such as “black coffee” “green tea” and “fresh mint”.

Before I could read Japanese, I was drawn by a pretty picture and bought a box of their “samurai incense – I go tthe Toyotomi Hideoshi one based on smell. Its based on agarwood and aloeswood and a perfect example for a high quality, mid priced (about 10 Euro per box of 90) incense stick.

Shoyeido started out in the countryside of Kansai, in Sasayama, when an incense blender who had studied incense making at the Imperial Court, opened an incense store there in 1705. Shoeido is now headquartered in Kyoto and not only do they have a really nice modern store but also an excellent (free) small museum on site, and a fantastic tour of their on-site production facility. Shoeido also sells in their own stores in Tokyo, Osaka, Sapporo and Yokohama. And you can even tour their production suite on Kyoto with an appointment!

Similar to Baieido, Shoeido produces different grades of incense, from the Premium Home Incense to inexpensive Daily Incense, with smoke-free varieties, and accessories – definitely more of a slant on use in the home environment rather than at the temple, but in great quality. You can see their impressive catalogue here.

Nippon Kodo, based in Tokyo, is another large manufacturer with a significant presence outside Japan, a Japanese as well as a US website and their products can easily be bought online or through a network of national distributors.

Where to experience Incense

Unlike with tea ceremony, you will be unlikely to come across upper class style “incense sniffing” parties these days.

Kōdō – The Way of Fragrance

Incense in Japan is a way of life – but in present days it is primarily associated with offering and worship at Buddhist temples and, to a lesser extent, in Shinto Shrines.

Kōdō is part of the Sandō, spiritual-aesthetic refinement experiences. The other two are Sadō – the way of tea (tea ceremony) and Kadō – the way of flowers (ikebana).

Kōdō is the word for appreciating fragrance, which usually means incense. According to folk lore, the first piece of natural incense in the form of a piece of agarwood was washed ashore at Awaji Island in the 6th Century CE, while at the same time, Buddhism and its rituals arrived from China. The Imperial Court quickly picked up on the art of fragrant things, and fragrance blending and burning aromatic fragrance became established as a royal pastime as well. This was extended to whoever had the resources to buy the fragrant woods, resins and spices, so from Imperial Court perfume parties to Samurai rites, incense made an entry into the homes of those who could afford it.

One can turn the Kōdō into a science, like tea ceremony and a ritual as well, called Monkō. The game of Kumikō involves several scents that get passed around, and you “guess” the ingredients, as some form of sociable game, whereas during Monkō, you reverently experience a single scent.

The modern way is to take an extra sniff at temples, shops, cafes – and visit lots of incense shops, and enquire and try their incense. Many shops, especially the specialist incense stores, will offer to burn incense so you can try several. A whiff of my favourite incense takes me back to happy places, so if there is a scent that speaks to you, don’t wait, but go and buy that incense you associate with a happy moment!

My favourite places to buy incense

You will never be far from a decent incense buying place. Wherever you are. Stationary shops and drug stores all over Japan will stock decent quality “everyday incense” in stick form that will make good and inexpensive fragrant souvenirs. Some even include a simple stick holder, or simply use a cup filled with salt.

Temples and Butsudan Shops

When you visit a temple, you will often be greeted with the discreet scent of something lovely, and many temples blend their own incense or have them blended. Kyoto’s Kunyokudo, for example, has always been a maker of incense for Nishi Honganji, and have a strong association with the temple.

If you like the smell of a temple’s incense, go and enquire at the souvenir shop what incense it is and whether it is for sale. Note that special incense is offered at ceremonies, and that often centuries of burning incense and the wood used to build the temple give a temple a special subtle smell. Most of the temples I have visited will offer incense for sale OFten, that incense is specially commissioned for a temple, and also often they have seasonal and “tourist” varieties for sale.

It is unlikely that you will be offered inferior quality of incense at a temple.

I have only a small collection of temple incense because usually, I visit an incense store or two, and I have trouble only buying what I need. The one I really love and subsequently bought is from Konkai Kōmyō-ji Temple in Kyoto – a magnificent crowd-free place to visit any time of the year but especially lovely for cherry blossom and autumn leaves. Most of it is free, so I bought a goshuin and the incense.

Many larger temples will be surrounded by Butsudan shops – shops selling everything for your Buddhist worship, and especially, Buddhist home altar. I have seen several of these shops near Kyoto’s Nishi Honganji and along Teramachi-dori. Since they are not limited to a single brand, you can get a large variety of manufacturers and prices.

Sakai Traditional Crafts Museum

Most people will have never heard of Sakai, those who do will probably know it for its UNESCO-listed Mozu tombs and excellent knife manufacturers rather than incense production, and so, the excellent Sakai Traditional Crafts Museum is very much knife-focused but has a small exhibit on Sakai incense production – and a great gift shop filled with incense to try at your leisure. A lot of it will come from local stalwart Baieido but I also bought the loveliest green tea incense from a local producer there. Prices are moderate, and you will definitely find something in their huge selection – and while you are there, you can also pick up some high quality knives and Nijiyura tenugui.

Sakai, by the way, is a great place to arrive or spend a last night when travelling through Kansai International, especially if you find large cities like Osaka or Kyoto somewhat overwhelming or want an untouristy, unhurried experience. I have visited Sakai twice, and stayed at the cute tiny Sakainoma Inn, still one of my favourite hotels. I have two posts here so far on Sakai, and I highly recommend you visit if you are interested in knives, craft, or want an off-the-beaten track experience within easy reach of KIX, Osaka or Kyoto.

Kyukyodo

I was introduced to the joy that is Kyukyodo by a Japanese friend back in 2005 or so when I asked for a recommendation to buy washi paper. Turns out, Kyukyodo is a venerable purveyor of incense,too, who started out as a temple district apothecary – but modern Kyukyodo, on balance is one third paper, one third calligraphy, one third incense.

They have two very beautiful shops opposite each other, and I would say Kyukyodo is the best all-rounder shop for lovely souvenirs like incense and paper products. The washi sheets and washi products are lovely, too.

If you’d like to read more about Kyukyodo, one of my favourite Kyoto shops, please continue here.

I have visited their Kyoto Main Shop (honten) several times, as well as their shop in Kyoto, and bought their products at Nagasaki’s Ishimaru Bunkouden.

For shopping in Kyoto – and as many hops to Kyukyodo as you want, because it is just around the corner, I highly recommend staying at the modern Prince Smart Inn – most convenient location but not too crowded, excellent value for relatively large and smart new rooms – and free bicycle parking!

Kungyokudo

If there is anywhere that manages the the balancing act between a deeply traditional temple apothecary and a modern aesthetic, it’s Kungyokudo. They have served Nishi Honganji since the Azuchi-Momoyama period, making them the oldest incense supplier of Japan – in their own words.

They operate out of a monolithic brutalist marble-clad edifice opposite Nishi Hongan-ji and although the shop might look a little forbidding from the outside, they are welcoming and lovely.

The ground floor is almost exclusively highly priced temple incense, so enter the airy second floor for all the “lifestyle” incense. Most of their offerings are incense sticks, but they so shaped incense, incense sachets and a line in soap and body care, too. The packaging is super elegant and conveys class and elegance – these sticks smell really lovely and make a definite difference from the more traditional blends, and here, too will staff be at hand to burn sticks for you to try.

They are somewhat pricier than the independents or the big names, but still, at about 10-15 Euro for 80 Sticks, they are not super expensive, and you can get scents like Uji Matcha or floral scents inspired by the seasons of Kyoto – a superb souvenir. With their incense sticks given names like “Roppongi” or “Yokohama” it is a bit more difficult to figure out what the sticks actually smell like, although you can also get classic scents like “Uji no Matcha” (which I love, it really smells a bit like matcha) and “Daigo no Sakura”. I don’t really have interior photos because photography wasn’t allowed inside the store.

If you are not planning to visit Nishi Honganji, they have a much smaller store just north of City Hall opposite from Ippudo Tea Store, too.

If you have time after visiting Nishi Honganji, check out the excellent Ryukoku Museum next door. I have usually come here by bicycle when I wanted a box of incense, but last year, I stayed at the excellent Gallery Nozawa Inn, about ten minutes walk away in underrated Shimabara, one of Kyoto’s now defunct pleasure quarters. The inn, in a restored Kyoto Townhouse, has just two rooms, with the lovely owner-proprietor couple lavishing all their attention on their guests – it’s like staying at an exclusive ryokan, but without the price tag. Find a detailed review here.

Shoyeido

A big player, Shoyeido has a large yet fairly traditional-looking store in Downtown Kyoto between Imperial Palace and Nijo Castle. Next door is a one-room museum, more an aesthetic space to rest and experience scents rather than a scientifically or historically driven museum that’s free to visit!

As it fits a large manufacturer, Shoyeido has many lines and collections of incense, at in the shop, it isn’t always obvious which is which.

To start with, they have an absolute ton of incense holder at all price points, from the cute to the super classic, as well as sachets, drawer sheets – the full programme. If you are new to incense, I would just look at their daily incense, pick the season and mood, and buy an inexpensive 100-stick packet of “Kyoto Cherry Blossom” , “Moss Garden” or “Golden Pavillion”. They also have a series more leaning into “Western” scents like Vanilla, Citrus or Lavender, called Xiang Bo. Both lines are very inexpensive, costing from 880JPY for 165 sticks, Xiang Bo cost the same for just 20 sticks but include a holder.

Another more lifestyle-oriented brand by Shoyeido is lisn – you can find their very centrally located standalone store in Downtown close to Shijo at Karasuma Stations

The closest accommodation I can recommend ist Higurashi-Sou, a spacious Kyoto Townhouse next to Nijo Castle that has been sympathetically converted into a guesthouse with an elegant retro flair. Shoyeido would be close by as well, about 800m walk past Nijo Castle, and be sure to walk past the quirky Face House on your way. Generally this location has many hotels, and it balances nicely between a “normal” city centre location and the undoubtedly touristy but convenient (subway line transfer) Downtown area around Karasuma Oike.

If you prefer a hotel and Western beds, I recommend Tabist Kiki Sanjo Takakura, a small modern hotel less than 5 minutes from the metro station, with hybrid Western-Japanese very large rooms and local design touches – I have written a separate review here.

Small / Independent Producers and Stores

There are so many to mention. And if I see an incense store, I normally walk in and come out with a packet of something. I have been to Kyoto several times and visited two smaller independent stores there so far. Both are great and well worth the detour.

Owariya Incense Store

Owariya Incense Store is the first one I visited in Kyoto. It’s Gion location means most tourists will pass through on their trip at least once. It is on Shinmonzen-dori, which is generally a lovely street, with some nice accommodation from super budget to super luxury, and a number of ships. it has some very high-ticket antiques stores but also shops like Owariya, a traditional tea shop and the excellent Momotaro Jeans. Owariya is a very aesthetic traditional counter store run by lovely older people with a carefully curated selection of own production and major brand incense. They also sell colourful balls of natural bug repellent – it smells very strong at first but mellows into a really pleasant smell. I store a few of the brightly coloured balls with my kimono and they emanate a lovely non-chemical smell that always reminds me of Kyoto.

Owariya Incense Store: 201 Nishinocho, Higashiyama Ward, Kyoto, 605-0088 Japan

In Gion, I have stayed at the adorable Shirakawa Kiraku Inn and at Gion Shinmonso. Shirakawa Kiraku Inn is a tiny Kyoto Townhouse lovingly looked after by an older gentleman, with simple rooms – from large tatami rooms to tiny single rooms and shared facilities. For the price, the value is unbeatable and you get a bonus roaming cat, Tama. Gion Shinmonso is a four-start modern Japanese hotel in traditional style with all-tatami rooms and four-star facilities.

Hayashi Ryushodo

The second shop I highly recommend is Hayashi-Ryushodo, a short walk from Nijo Castle. An altogether larger and traditional family-run store with own branded incense which looks like an apothecary from a Studio Ghibli film – who would not want to shop here? Although the owners don’t speak much English, they are absolutely lovely and will readily burn lots of different incense. There is a huge variety of traditional incense, incense ingredients for blending your own and the customary incense sticks and shapes. Both these stores are rather at the traditional end of the spectrum both in looks as in the sensory offerings.

Hayashi-Ryushodo:  Hashihigashizumecho, Nakagyo Ward, Kyoto, 604-8258 Japan

The closest accommodation I can recommend ist Higurashi-Sou, a spacious Kyoto Townhouse next to Nijo Castle that has been sympathetically converted into a guesthouse with an elegant retro flair. Shoyeido would be close by as well, about 800m walk past Nijo Castle, and be sure to walk past the quirky Face House on your way

Where to Stay

All these recommendations are for Kyoto, where the majority of incense stores named in this post are located. Chances are, there is likely to be a great incense store near your hotel anyway, but the below are some places I stayed in recent years that fit my love for all things traditional and small-scale – and this time, I have included them in the sections with the incense shops.

If you are looking for anything specific, or have a question about good hotel locations, feel free to ask! I don’t know much about big corporate hotels or luxury hotels or the famous ryokan because frankly, speaking, they’re not within my budget or fit my style of travel, but feel free to ask about anything else.

The Small Print

I visited Japan several times between 2024 and 2026, and I visited all the shops mentioned and stayed at all the hotels I have recommended here.

As always, I was paying my own way, so nothing you see here was sponsored, and I did not receive compensation, discounts, or special treatment in exchange for writing it. All my own honest and unbiased opinion.

This post does contain affiliate links to Booking.com and Agoda.com. If you book a hotel using my affiliate links, I may make a small commission at no extra cost to you. Please refer to my blog’s Terms and Conditions for further information.

This post reflects my personal opinion and experience and is not a statement of fact about any places or accommodation mentioned in this post. I am not a specialist in incense so please forgive me for any inaccuracies that may have crept in here. I always appreciate honest feedback and corrections.

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