How to enjoy Kyoto with limited mobility

It feels like everyone is visiting Japan right now, and many people who visited report how much they’ve walked. Which raises the questions – is it advisable to travel to Japan with mobility issues? That, of course, is a very general question, but having visited Kyoto recently, I am trying to shed some light how enjoyable and how practical a trip to Kyoto is when your mobility isn’t the same as your peers. You can definitely have a great time in Kyoto with limited mobility.

General thoughts on Kyoto

Having been Japan’s capital for over a millennium, right until Meiji restoration in 1868, Kyoto is no small town, although some photos often suggest so. It is a big sprawling city and metropolitan area of 3 million people surrounded by mountains except to the south where it opens into Osaka bay. It is served by numerous rail companies ( Japan Rail plus 5 private ones) and even has two underground lines.

Japan is a country that is quite densely populated. It has about 340 people living in a square kilometre and only the Netherlands, Bangladesh and Korea have a higher population density. So, it is quite built up, especially in the cities. Generally speaking public transport in Kyoto is quite good.

Kyoto traffic situation

As in every fairly densely built-up city that hasn’t been buil ton a grid, there are some traffic issues.

Is Kyoto easy to navigate on public transport? Well, if you are a tourist, most of the places you’d want to visit are not so easy to access by rail or underground, so you have to rely on Kyotos’s bus network. Which, to be honest, isn’t bad. Only buses get full, very full.

When I recently arrived in Kyoto, there were people with placards indicating where to queue and checking that you luggage is not too large for the bus ( small carry on just about ok).

Arrive at the main railway station and any bus going to a site of touristic interest will invariably full to the point of being crammed, so that you won’t be able to get on. I was told that citizens of Kyoto have difficulty reaching appointment because of the buses just being overly full, all the time.

Generally speaking the vast majority of buses are wheelchair-accessible. Travel with less than a very visible mobility limit, and you have not such good cards. Buses get full, and giving up your seat for elderly or disabled wasn’t practiced in the (few) buses I rode.

The buses do go to most famous sights, but often a longer walk will be involved, making “hopping” all over Kyoto to see the most famous sights a time-consuming affair.

Train stations all have elevators and are accessible. The problem is – many sight are a long walk from the train stations.

So, how to visit Kyoto with limited mobility?

Mobility looks different to different people. This post reflects my own experience as someone with relatively light mobility issues, but always looking out for ways to minimize walking and stairs.

For the main attractions in Kyoto, I highly recommend Accessible Japan, a superb website with detailed accessibility information on the popular sights as well as lots of general info on travelling in Japan.

Going by my own experience, I am starting with the easiest option – cycling. If you are able to cycle, do cycle. Kyoto is great for cycling.

Cycling in Kyoto

If you can cycle at home, I would really recommend giving cycling in Kyoto a try. Apart from a few streets in the main shopping area, all of Kyoto’s streets are cycleable. A few streets have dedicated cycling lanes, and when they do, cycling there is a breeze. A bit like London cycleways, these are cycling paths away from the main road where you can cycle fast and without stopping much.

Generally, you are advised to ride on the road rather than the pavement unless there is dedicated cycling lane on the pavement or the road is too dangerous to ride. 90% of tourist attractions have designated bicycle parking. Usually parking staff will direct you to them and advise whether they are free or ask for a parking fee, it’s very straightforward. Bike theft is not really an issue as long as you lock the bike.

A lot of Kyoto’s smaller roads are one-way roads. That was the biggest issue to get my head around. A lot of Kyoto’s secondary grid-like road in the centre are one-way streets. As a general rule, in Kyoto you can ride your bicycle into any one-way street in the “wrong direction”. Given they are quite narrow, it’s sometimes fund navigation the oncoming traffic, and figuring out who has right of way at crossroads, what with the left hand traffic etc. It definitely pays to slow down and make sure the bicycle has good brakes.

There is a really nice map you can download for free, which shows you the no-go roads and bicycle parking areas.

There are several shops all over town where you can hire bicycles. Some hotels and guesthouses also have some for rent. There are bicycle share schemes, but firstly these bicycles are sturdy and not made for fast or nippy cycling, and also, I heard you need a Japanese telephone number to use them so they are off limits to casual visitors.

Usually only the simplest single-speed bicycles have comfy step-through frames, anything with gears is more like a sturdy touring bike. And in Kyoto, there are a few hills for Higashiyama sights or Kinkaku-ji, and they will make you wish for some gears. But… electric-assist (you still have to pedal) and fully electric bikes (you don’t have to pedal) bicycles which are often step-through sturdy ladies frames are available from many bicycle rental shops!

Also, please note that you need to park bicycles in designated parking lots. At more famous sights, they can be quite some walk from the entrance, whereas at smaller sights and temples, there is usually designated free bicycle parking right by the entrance. I also found that at some places, permission to park during your visit is usually granted by asking, provided the bicycle is not in anyone’s way.

I have written a more detailed Kyoto cycling post, please visit it!

Using a standard Taxi

This would be my second best choice, and one I will certainly entertain when I return to Japan with my mother. Kyoto has plenty of taxis, easy to flag down or call through your hotel. All official txis are metered, clean, comfortable big sedans. It is not terribly expensive to use a taxi. Often Taxi drivers don’t speak English but are very friendly and helpful. Many of the major sights have taxis waiting. My suggestion would be to arrange a taxi through your hotel either as a day trip with waiting time, or, if you do major sights, just on a ride-but ride basis as taxis are easy to call, and staff at sights may be able to help. Go is a commonly used taxi mobile app. Find a list of taxi companies in Kyoto with English speaking staff and wheelchair accessibility here.

I am planning to take my elderly mother to Kyoto next year, and she’s not a cyclist. So I think we will be making use of the taxis a lot, and have some more of an understanding how well this mode of transport works for tourist things.

Buses in Kyoto

If not, the buses to provide a decent network and are accessible. When visiting the main sights, bear in mind it is a way from the bus stop to the actual sight, but usually the terrain is wheelchair accessible (although steep in places, for example at many temples in Higashiyama).

Most bus routes that are interesting to tourists (and as such, often terribly crowded) start in Kyoto Station. Most interesting are the 204 to Ginkaku-ji via Downtown, the 205 to Kinkaku-ji via Downtown and the 206 to Kitaoji via Sanjusangendo, Kiyomizudera and Gion.

Recently, the city has started a somewhat limited tourist bus route to try and ease the strain on the regular bus lines. Ex100 goes from Kyoto Station to Ginkaku-ji via Kiyomizudera and Gion. That covers a small section of the Kyoto highlights, but for most, you will still need the subway or a regular bus.

A sightseeing bus on a fixed circular tour is also available. It is called Sky Hop, but its website has absolutely no accessibility information. Routes appear quite restricted and some only leave a couple times a day, leaving you essentially stranded if you leave the bus.

Choosing easily accessible accommodation

A general recommendation for Japanese cities is to stay in accommodation close to train stations. That it ture for Kyoto as well, although I would say there are much prettier and quieter areas to stay than near Kyoto train stations. But then, with the upmarket business hotels Hotel Granvia and the Hotel Miyako City Kintetsu Kyoto Station, you won’t even need to leave the station to get to your hotel. Being the ever cost-conscious solo traveller, I made a reservation at the Hotel Hokke Club for my trip later this year, when I expect to arrive in Kyoto quite late at night – the hotel is opposite the station, less than 50m from where the city buses leave, so I can save all my energy for the sightseeing day ahead.

Gion

For accessibility, central location and beauty, Gion is quite hard to beat. You can find any type of accommodation in Gion, from cheap hostels to absolute luxury.

I stayed at Kiraku Inn, a small budget inn in Northern Gion, on my last visit. If you are okay with stairs (1 flight) and don’t mind sitting on the floor and futon, I absolutely recommend it. Shinmonzen-dori is a beautiful quiet street, and it’s 150m to a bus stop with lots of city lines of touristic interest.

If your budget goes higher, take a look at Hotel Alza. You are a stone’s throw from a subway station right by the river in a quiet green area but super central. And last not least, Kyoto Granbell Hotel, a bit further south, is super stylish, close to subway and train stations and a short walk from the major Kawaramachi Shopping Area. Some of its rooms are wheelchair, accessible, too.

Did you know that on Booking.com, you can set a filter for wheelchair accessibility?

Some (relatively) easily accessible sights

I have visited all of these, although some was a few years back, some I visited recently. I tend to stick to smaller sights and slower travel, taking my time and enough breaks, which suits my mobility.

Myoshin-ji

This very large Rinzai sect Zen Temple is very easy to visit, because you can bike and drive right into the compound. It is extremely peaceful, with just a few visitors.

Noteworthy are the Hatto with a monumental dragon ceiling painting in the central complex and Taizo-in, one of the subtemples right next to it, with its multitude of gardens on a relatively small area and plenty of seating.

There is gravel and some tarmac with very few, if any steps.

Anraku-ji

Anraku-ji is a small temple of the jodo-shu school of Buddhism that isn’t always open but when it is, it is definitely worth a trip up the Higashiyama Hills – a taxi can take you wight to the gate. There are about 15 wide steps with railings and it’s gravel paths and some flat cobbles inside the temple, with no further stairs. It is super quiet with plenty of seating including chair sand benches and the nicest tea house.

It’s also worth the short walk to Honen-in next door, which is not always open. The garden are usually open, and are some of the most beautiful tranquil gardens. There are a few steps with no railings at the entrance.

Which brings us to Ginkaku-ji (“Silver Pavilion) next door which is, unfortunately, not too accessible. Ginkaku-ji is a Rinzai Zen Buddhism Temple that started life as a summer palace with extensive gardens. It is gorgeous, and unlike the bus, a taxi can take you all the way to its entrance. It is then walk on a gravel path for 200m, slightly uphill to see the zen garden and main pavilion, which cannot be entered and part of the extensive gardens are uphill and with lots of steps. To get the famous view you can see in pictures, you will need to walk about 200m from the main entrance, and if I remember right, this section is wheelchair-accessible, too. But the worst bit? They like to keep people moving, so once you are past the souvenir shop, you cannot sit and rest anywhere.

Eikan-do

A moderately busy temple of the jodo-shu school of “Pure Land” Buddhism, the most commonly practised school of Buddhism in Japan. It is famous for autumn foliage when it gets very busy. The Main Hall and pond are easily accessible, set in a beautiful garden. The hillside gardens and pagoda are narrow stairs. It’s about 200m slight uphill from the nearest bus stop.

Shoren-in

Shoren-in is a mid-sized temple that makes a great visit – most of the halls can be visited, the main garden is relatively compact, and there is ample seating although mostly on the floor, with no standard benches. The pagoda is up a steep set of steps and therefore not that easily accessible. There is a bus stop about 100m away.

Heian-jingu

Heian-jingu is a very impressive bright red shrine in the centre of town, a stone’s throw from some of Kyoto’s major museums, so an easy one to combine with a museum trip. It is super central , but interestingly only the tourist bus stops right outside – city buses are a block across Okazaki Park which has nice benches to rest in.

The terrain is pretty large, and mostly gravelled, which doesn’t make for the most comfortable walking. Some paths are paved and suitable for wheelchairs, and there are ramps, but the gravel isn’t fun.

What about other temples and shrines?

On my last trip, I also visited Ryoan-ji and Ninna-ji. Both are beautiful and absolutely worth a trip, but and I did not find them easily accessible. Ryoan-ji is set in very large gardens, involving a long-ish walk of 300m with some steps to see the famous Zen Rock Garden.

Ninna-ji sits on a very large gravelled compound. While it may be possible to get a taxi to drop you at the main entrance, it is a fair walk to the pagoda and Main Hall.

When I visited Kinkaku-ji (“Golden Pavilion”) many years ago, I had no issues and if I remember right, it is set in rather large grounds, with parts being wheelchair accessible. Accessible Japan says the Golden Pavilion viewpoint and parts of the garden are accessible, but gravel may make it harder for wheelchairs.

Another favourite of Kyoto visitors is Fushimi Inari, a Shinto shrine in Southern Kyoto known for its avenues of red torii gates. The Sanctuary is very accessible by car and trains, the torii avenues – unfortunately not. A fair bit of walking is required to see them, although they do start soon after the sanctuary, but get super crowded. Since the shrine is open 24 hours a day and you have your heart set on Fushimi INari, try to visit in the early mornings or late at night.

One I skipped on recent visits was Kiyomizu-dera. It was the second Kyoto temple I visited and I walked form Sanjusangen-do (very accessible, including wheelchair), which was a decent uphill walk. It’s a longish uphill walk from the nearest bus stop, with some uphill ramps and stairs once inside, plus crowds, so perhaps not the easiest one to visit. If your heart is set o nit, I would recommend taking a taxi to the Niomon Gate before they open at 6am, then shortly make your way up, and then walk down touristy but pretty Sannen-zaka and Ninen-zaka, where there are lots of cafes and places to rest, to the Kiyomiyumichi bus stop (about 650 metres of nice downhill street).

Gion

Gion is a relatively compact district which can easily be visited even with mobility problems. All but the smallest streets are driveable, and several city buses ply the large Shijo-dori and Higashioji-dori. Shijo-dori is lined with fairly touristy but classy shops and cafes and is nice for souvenir shopping, and the famous Hanamikoji street has bars and tea houses.

What really makes a walk in Gion quite special is the smaller streets, at times when they aren’t totally overrun with visitors – early morning is pretty magical. Stroll along Hanamikoji Street and its adjacent smaller pedestrian lanes, then stop at the pretty Tatsumi-jinja shrine before walking along the picturesque canal down Shirakawa Lane.

Nijo-jo and Kyoto Imperial Palace

This list is far from exhaustive, it is just some of the temples and shrines I have visited so far – there are more to come.

I liked the look of Nijo-jo because you can cycle into the compound, which is about 300x400metres and covered in… you guessed it, gravel! The actual palace bi tis wheelchair accessible, with indoor wheelchairs available to borrow!

Even larger and with more gravel is the Kyoto Imperial Palace, but it also has more garden-y bits with shaded benches to rest on.

As far as museums go, I think all except ancient mansions like Nijo-jinja are accessible with elevators and ramps.

The Small Print

Mobility issues will mean different thing to different people. For some, it may just be general fatigue, and inability to walk far. For others, medical problems with leg, back or nervous system. So, while this post gives some general advice for managing sightseeing with limited mobility, I cannot give specific, tailor-made advice in a blog post.

My own background is basically arthritis, which is common, and runs in my family. I first started having slight issues in 2019, and I can cycle for miles but can’t walk fast or for long periods at a time. I manage 15k steps on a good day, less than 3k on a bad one when travelling, so the advice is based on my own experience. I have tried to include barrier-free information wherever possible. PLease feel free to share your own experiences.

Next year my mother (more advanced age and same mobility issues but more metal implants) plan to visit Kyoto, so I will add to this post.

I visited Kyoto in May 2024 for three days on a trip I planned and paid for myself. This post contains affiliate links to Booking.com, meaning that I may earn a small commision if you book through one of these links. More information in my Terms and Conditions.